Hawaii Travel Guide
by Lonely Planet
Walk Puna Keaau & Around Pahoa Highway 132 Red Road (Highway 137) Highway 130 Hawaii Volcanoes National Park & Around Volcano Kau Pahala Punaluu Naalehu Waiohinu & Around South Point (Ka Lae) Ocean View & Around Maui Maui Highlights Lahaina City Walk West Maui Lahaina to Maalaea Lahaina to Kaanapali Kaanapali Honokowai Kahana Napili Kapalua & Northern Beaches
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diverse community traditions alive, from Hawaiian hula and outrigger canoe races to Japanese taiko drumming. Why I Love Hawaii By Sara Benson, Coordinating Author On my first trip to Hawaii, I landed on Maui almost broke and with my luggage lost in transit. No problem: I camped by the beach, plucked ripe
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© When giant rollers come crashing in, head to Oʻahu's North Shore for a glimpse of Hawaii's surfing rock stars (you can also spot them riding pro-worthy waves at Maui's Hoʻokipa Beach and Kauaʻi's own North Shore). No need to pull out a camera
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a grand parade. Later in the month, Honolulu’s King Kamehameha Hula Competition is one of Hawaii’s biggest contests. 5Kapalua Wine & Food Festival Hawaii’s longest-running culinary extravaganza attracts taste-makers to West Maui's Kapalua resort in mid-June. Show up for cooking demonstrations by TV celebrity chefs and
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and 26.2-mile marathon. Watch more than 2200 athletes push their own limits in mid-October. 3Maui Ukulele Festival Herald Hawaii’s favorite stringed musical instrument outdoors at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center in mid-October, with guest appearances by stars such as Jake Shimabukuro and Kelly Boy De Lima.
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Film Festival In mid-October, this highly regarded festival of Pacific Rim cinema screens more than 200 Asian, Polynesian and Hawaii-made films, with the main action in Honolulu. zHalloween On Maui, Lahaina’s Halloween carnival was once so huge it was dubbed 'Mardi Gras of the Pacific.' It's been
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the Divers Alert Network (DAN; www.diversalertnetwork.org). ADon't go for a helicopter or plane ride or ascend to high altitudes on Hawaii's volcanoes (eg Haleakalā on Maui, Mauna Kea or Mauna Loa on the Big Island) for at least 24 hours before or after scuba diving. Fishing The sea
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The main islands offer whale-watching tours and have areas where you can spot whales from shore, including from Maui's sanctuary headquarters in Kihei. Windsurfing With warm waters and steady winds, Hawaii ranks as one of the world's premier spots for windsurfing. Generally, the best winds blow from June through
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s North shore, with poi-pounding, lei-making and hula-dancing lessons too. Old Lahaina Luau Hawaii's most authentic, aloha-filled luau comes with music, dancing and an imu-cooked whole roasted pig, on Maui. Pearl Harbor Squeeze inside a WWII-era submarine; pace a battleship's decks; or become
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i, the Big Island. Whalers Village Museum Let kids imagine themselves aboard a 19th-century whaling ship, complete with harpoons and scrimshaw carvings, in West Maui. Hawaii Children's Discovery Center Best rainy-day indoor playground for tots and schoolchildren, not far from Waikiki Beach on Oʻahu. Planning When choosing the
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national park. Locavore Heaven Grass-fed beef from Upcountry pastures, day-boat fish and bountiful organic gardens ensure Mauiʻs chef-driven restaurants always have the raw ingredients to whip up their famed Hawaii Regional Cuisine creations. Lanaʻi South Pacific Ignoring the great views of other islands, Lanaʻi feels
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who crowd closely around, hassling these gentle reptiles. To learn more about sea turtles and efforts to preserve critical habitat in Hawaii, visit Save Punaluʻu (www.savepunaluu.org) and Maui-based World Turtle Trust (www.world-turtle-trust.org) online. Naʻalehu Pop 866 Tiny Naʻalehu is the southernmost town
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Crater. 9 Hike through a bamboo forest on the Pipiwai Trail. a Watch windboarders zip across waves at Hoʻokipa Beach Park & Lookout. History Maui’s early history mirrors the rest of Hawaii’s, with warring chiefs, periods of peace, missionaries, whalers and sugarcane. At the time of statehood in 1959
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first resort destination outside Waikiki. Things really took off in 1974 with the first nonstop flight between mainland USA and Kahului. Maui soon blossomed into the darling of Hawaii’s tourism industry. Its growth spurt hasn’t always been pretty. In the mid-1970s developers pounced on the beachside village of
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Los Angeles, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle and Vancouver, BC. Kahului International Airport All trans-Pacific flights to Maui arrive in Kahului, the island’s main airport. Kapalua Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.hawaii.gov/jhm) Off Hwy 30, south of Kapalua, this regional airport has flights to other Hawaiian islands on
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ornate accents, this rooftop oasis – owned by Fleetwood Mac drummer Mick Fleetwood – evokes Morocco. But views of the Pacific and the West Maui mountains keep you firmly rooted in Hawaii. At sunset, a conch-shell blast announces a tiki-lighting ceremony that’s followed by a bagpipe serenade – from a kilt-wearing
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PeopleCLOTHING, HOMEWARES ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-662-8785; www.sandpeople.com; Whalers Village; h9:30am-10pm) Boutique with women's apparel and Hawaii-inspired cottage decor. 8Getting Around Bus The Maui Bus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-871-4838; www.mauicounty.gov; per trip $2; hmost routes 6:30am-8pm) currently connects Whalers Village
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extravaganza is held over four days in mid-June at the Ritz-Carlton. It features renowned winemakers and Hawaii’s hottest chefs, offering cooking demonstrations and wine tastings. Xterra World ChampionshipSPORTS (www.xterraplanet.com/maui; hOct) Held in October, this race is a major off-road triathlon. Based out of the
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and road bikes, complete with helmet, pads and a roof rack. Provides good trail maps on its website. TTours Helicopter In Hawaii the best helicopter tours operate out of Maui and Kauaʻi. So if you aren’t visiting the latter, this is your shot at the top. Various tour routes are
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guided hike with this well-established company, which opened its doors in 1983! Also leads hikes into the crater at Haleakalā National Park. Hike Maui won the Hawaii Ecotourism Association's Operator of the Year award in 2010. Check website for departure locations. zFestivals & Events oKi Hoʻalu Slack Key Guitar FestivalMUSIC
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'sC1 12Tasty CrustC1 13Wailuku Coffee CoC2 3Entertainment 14ʻIao TheaterC2 7Shopping 15Native IntelligenceC2 1Sights A cluster of historic buildings anchor the small downtown. Hawaii’s best-known architect, Maui-born CW Dickey, left his mark here before moving on to fame in Honolulu. The c 1928 Wailuku Public Library ( MAP GOOGLE
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GOOGLE MAP ; %808-572-2008; www.mauihands.com; 1169 Makawao Ave; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun) A fascinating collection of high-quality Hawaii art, primarily from Maui, including photography, koa, ceramics, and a mix of traditional and contemporary paintings. Worth a stop. Volcano SpiceFOOD ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-572-7729
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to play havoc with your compass. Modest as it looks, it’s also – at 10,008ft – the second-highest point on Maui. Science CityLANDMARK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ifa.hawaii.edu) Science City is the nickname for the collection of domes just behind the summit. Managed by the University of Hawaiʻi
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down, spend a night or two and enjoy it. History It’s hard to imagine little Hana as the epicenter of Maui, but this village produced many of ancient Hawaii’s most influential aliʻi (chiefs). Hana’s great 14th-century chief Piʻilani marched from here to conquer rivals in
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Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF), an organization that puts volunteers and organic farms together globally, runs a special Hawaii operation. In East Maui Hana Farms and Coconut Glen's are both sponsors, among others. For a full list of opportunities, see www.wwoofhawaii.org. 8Information Hana Ranch Center
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running a public hospital. In 1883 at age 45 she accepted a plea to treat leprosy patients in Hawaii after 50 other institutions had said no. After establishing hospitals in Oʻahu and Maui, she moved to Kalaupapa in 1888 to care for Father Damien and the other patients. She remained
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Oʻahu Roy's Waikiki, Oʻahu Merriman's, Hawaiʻi (Big Island) Haliʻimaile General Store, Maui Josselin's Tapas Bar & Grill, Kauaʻi Hawaii's Locavore Movement A whopping 85% to 90% of Hawaii's food is imported. Now, a growing number of small-scale farmers are trying to shift the
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hawaiinuibrewing.com; 275 E Kawili; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri); and IPAs and unfiltered pale ales at Honolulu Beerworks on Oʻahu. CHEERS FOR HAWAII'S GREEN BEER Maui Brewing Company and Kona Brewing Company beers aren't literally turning green, but the folks who brew them have implemented ingenious eco-conscious practices
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as steamed mahimahi and teriyaki chicken. Most commercial luau are overpriced and touristy, but one stands out for authenticity and aloha: Maui's Old Lahaina Luau. Festivals & Events Festivals in Hawaii often showcase island-grown crops, such as the Big Island's Kona Coffee Cultural Festival and Kaʻu Coffee Festival, Hana
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Edison first journeyed here to make movies that you can still watch today at Lahaina's Wo Hing Museum on Maui. By 1939, dozens of Hollywood movies had been shot in Hawaii, including the musical comedy Waikiki Wedding (1937), in which Bing Crosby crooned the Oscar-winning song 'Sweet Leilani.' Later
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velvety and aromatic flower. It was imported by 19th-century Christian missionaries for their gardens in Lahaina. Today it's Maui's official flower, the only exotic flora so recognized in Hawaii. Lanaʻi A yellowish-orange vine, kaunaʻoa is traditionally gathered from the island's windward shores, then twisted into
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Bank (www.hawaiifoodbank.org) Help feed the hungry on Oʻahu and Kauaʻi. Hawaii Nature Center (www.hawaiinaturecenter.org) Trail maintenance, gardening, environmental restoration and special events on Oʻahu and Maui. Hawaii State Parks Partners (www.hawaiistateparks.org/partners) Natural and cultural resource preservation on all of the main islands.
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Big Island. Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary Annual migratory whale counts and year-round volunteer opportunities on Maui, Oʻahu and Kauaʻi. Kahoʻolawe Island Reserve Commission (KIRC; http://kahoolawe.hawaii.gov) Restoring the island's natural environment and important Hawaiian cultural sites. Kokeʻe Resource Conservation Program (
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is uncommon, but you should still choose your campgrounds carefully. Check our reviews, then ask locals and park staff for advice. National Parks Hawaii's two national parks – Maui's Haleakalā National Park and the Big Island's Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park – have drive-up campgrounds that are first-come, first
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Somewhat dated website, but with active online discussion boards and listings of gay-friendly businesses on Oʻahu, Hawaiʻi, Maui and Kauaʻi. Out Traveler (www.outtraveler.com) Gay-oriented Hawaii travel articles are free online. Pacific Ocean Holidays (www.gayhawaiivacations.com) Personalized vacation packages for gay and lesbian travelers. Pride
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, with high penalty fees for noncompliance. Banned at all county beaches and parks on Oʻahu, Maui and the Big Island. Other Laws Public nudity (as at beaches) and hitchhiking are both illegal in Hawaii, but sometimes are ignored by police. Hitching is never entirely safe, and we don’t recommend
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, accessible transportation, all-terrain beach wheelchairs, and medical and other support services on Oʻahu, Hawaiʻi (Big Island), Maui and Kauaʻi. Work US citizens can pursue work in Hawaii as they would in any other state – the problem is finding a job. International visitors in the USA on tourist
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include the following: Hilo International Airport East Hawaiʻi (Big Island). Kahului International Airport (OGG; GOOGLE MAP ; %808-872-3830; http://hawaii.gov/ogg; 1 Kahului Airport Rd, Kahului) Maui. Kona International Airport at Keahole West Hawaiʻi (Big Island). Lanaʻi AirportLanaʻi. Lihuʻe Airport Kauaʻi. Molokaʻi Airport
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East Coast). Pleasant Holidays (%800-742-9244; www.pleasantholidays.com) offers competitive vacation packages from the US mainland. Sea Most cruises to Hawaii include stopovers in Honolulu and on Maui, Kauaʻi and the Big Island. Cruises typically last two weeks, with fares starting around $100 per person per night, based on
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oversized baggage vary and can be restrictive, not to mention expensive – ask before booking. Airlines in Hawaii Hawaiian AirlinesAIRLINE (%800-367-5320; www.hawaiianairlines.com) Flies nearly 200 daily routes between Honolulu, Kauaʻi, Maui and the Big Island, with limited flights to Molokaʻi and Lanaʻi. Flying between two
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to wait until the next bus comes along (which can be problematic on the Big Island, Maui and Kauaʻi, but not usually on Oʻahu). Boat Interisland ferry service is surprisingly limited in Hawaii. Currently only Molokaʻi and Lanaʻi have regular, passenger-only public ferry service to/from
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Lahaina, Maui. oNorwegian Cruise LineBOAT (NCL; %877-397-1504; www.ncl.com) Operates a seven-day cruise between
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s license. Fuel Gasoline (petrol) is readily available everywhere except along remote roads (eg Saddle Road on the Big Island, Hana Hwy on Maui). Gas prices in Hawaii are the highest in the country, currently averaging $3.90 per US gallon. Insurance Required by law, liability insurance covers any people or property
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are available on all the main islands. Helicopter tours are especially popular on Hawaiʻi (the Big Island), Kauaʻi and Maui. Most tours can be booked after arrival in Hawaii, but if your schedule is tight or you're visiting during peak travel times, reserve ahead. Roberts HawaiiTOUR (%808-539-9400
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Follow her latest adventures online at www.indietraveler.blogspot.com, www.indietraveler.net, @indie_traveler on Twitter and indietraveler on Instagram. Amy C Balfour Maui Amy first visited Hawaii as a toddler. These days she returns annually to tackle new adventures – and return to old favorites. For this edition, she wandered the
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Upcountry and dug into healthy new culinary creations from Wailea to Wailuku. Amy has authored or co-authored 26 books for Lonely Planet, including Discover Maui, Hawaii, California, Southwest USA and USA. Adam Karlin Hawai‘i, the Big Island How great is Hawai‘i? Adam has written over 40 guidebooks for
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s been back often, usually renting a beachside house where, between novels, he looks without envy at the busy lights of Maui across the channel. For this edition of Hawaii, Ryan wheedled the latest gossip out of tight-lipped locals on Larry Ellison’s Lana‘i. Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty
Discover Maui
by Lonely Planet
cliff-hugging Hana Hwy, soaking up waterfalls and swimming holes. Or take it airborne on an adrenaline-charged swoop down Hawaii’s longest zipline. Diversity is a big part of the allure. Maui’s resorts are world-renowned. Out of the limelight but equally worthy are the cozy B&Bs, offering the
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a sunset swim. ( Click here ) KAPALUA BEACH A beautiful beach with calm waters year-round. ( Click here ) PAʻILOA BEACH Maui’s finest black-sand beach. ( Click here ) HAMOA BEACH Hawaii author James Michener waxed lyrical over this unspoiled Hana beach. (Click here ) Snorkeling at Malu‘aka Beach Don your mask and
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up, Hawaiian-style. The weekly guest list features some of the finest slack key guitar players on the planet. SEIDEN ALLAN/PHOTOLIBRARY Surfing West Maui This is Hawaii, of course you’re going to catch some waves. The best part is, you don’t have to be Laird Hamilton to enjoy the
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here ), where the golf course is transformed into the ‘Celestial Theater’ and Hollywood stars show up for added bling. Maui Film Festival PHOTOGRAPHER: RANDY JAY BRAUN/MAUI FILM FESTIVAL Kapalua Wine & Food Festival Hawaii’s hottest chefs vie for attention in this culinary extravaganza of cooking demonstrations and wine tasting ( Click here ) in
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this hula dance competition in November, which features some of the best keiki dancers in Hawaii. Na Mele O Maui Hawaiian Music (www.kaanapaliresort.com) The ‘Song of Maui’ features children’s choral groups singing Native Hawaiian music honoring Hawaii’s last monarch, Queen Liliʻuokalani, who was a renowned music composer and cultural
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fusion fare. Tantalize the taste buds with the likes of lobster-coconut bisque, wasabi-seared fish and a pork chop with a Maui Gold Pineapple glaze. MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA Hawaii Regional $$$ ( 669-6400; www.merrimanshawaii.com; 1 Bay Club Pl; happy hour menu $9-24; happy hour 3-5pm) We like
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Slack Key Guitar Festival Music Festival (www.mauiarts.org) At this event held on the lawn of the Maui Arts & Cultural Center in June, top slack key guitarists from throughout Hawaii take the stage. Maui Marathon Road Race (www.mauimarathon.com) Held in mid-September, this road race begins in Kahului and ends
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your day? Step up to the bar and order a Sledge Hammer – a quadruple espresso with steamed half and half. Performers, Maui Arts & Cultural Center PHOTOGRAPHER: PHOTO RESOURCE HAWAII/ALAMY Entertainment MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER Concert Hall Offline map Google map (MACC; 242-7469; www.mauiarts.org; 1 Cameron Way) There’s
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more touristed towns. Sights Ready to get down to some nitty-gritty exploring? Dusty Wailuku offers a bevy of historic treasures. Hawaii’s best-known architect, Maui-born CW Dickey, left his mark in this town before moving on to fame in Honolulu. The c 1928 Wailuku Public Library Offline map
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gliding stingrays and menacing sharks encircle you. It’s as close as you’ll ever get to being underwater without donning dive gear. Maui Ocean Center TOR JOHNSON/HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY Kid-friendly features abound, including interactive displays on whales in the Marine Mammal Discovery Center, a cool touch-pool and, best
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Two Days Ulua Beach (Click here ) In the morning, snorkel north to coral gardens teeming with fish at Maui’s favorite snorkel spot. Try to find the humuhumunukunukukuapuaʻa ( Hawaii’s state fish), which sports more colors than vowels. Café O’Lei (Click here ) There’s no better place for lunch
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, for fashionable beachwear pop into Mahina (www.mahinamaui.com). Dudes can browse 808 Clothing Store (www.the808clothingcompany.com) for T-shirts with original Maui designs. Information Bank of Hawaii ( 879-5844; www.boh.com; Azeka Mauka, 1279 S Kihei Rd) Kihei Police District Station ( 244-6400; Kihei Town Center, 1881 S
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find in other Kula gardens. When the rain gods have been generous the whole place is an explosion of color. MAUI AGRICULTURAL RESEARCH CENTER Garden Offline map ( 878-1213; www.ctahr.hawaii.edu; 424 Mauna Pl; admission free; 7:30am-3:30pm Mon-Thu) It was in this garden operated by
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Hana Beach Park PHOTOGRAPHER: GREG ELMS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © History It’s hard to imagine little Hana as the epicenter of Maui, but this village produced many of ancient Hawaii’s most influential aliʻi (chiefs). Hana’s great 14th-century chief Piʻilani marched from here to conquer rivals in Wailuku
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to Waikoloa Beach at the northern end of the bay. NAME: GEORGE KAHUMOKU JR OCCUPATION: GRAMMYWINNING SLACK KEYGUITARIST, TARO FARMER RESIDENCE: MAUI NUI WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE EXPERIENCES IN EAST MAUI? MauiFest Hawaii (Click here ). It’s all Hawaiian stuff . It’s home grown. It gets the public involved, shows movies and short
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Experienced surfers take to the northern end of the beach. In Focus MAUI TODAY HISTORY THE PEOPLE OF MAUI HAWAII’S CUISINE HAWAIIAN ARTS & CRAFTS FAMILY TRAVEL GREEN MAUI OUTDOOR ADVENTURES LEI Top of chapter Maui Today “Few topics raise more debate on Maui than development issues” Volunteer working on Koʻieʻie Fishpond (Click here
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) GREG ELMS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © New Government On Maui all local government is
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to provide affordable homes for islanders, not second homes for mainlanders. The cost of buying a modest home on Maui is head spinning, even by Hawaii standards. That’s forcing a new generation of Maui-born people to move to places like Seattle, where living is more affordable. No surprise then that ‘Save
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the Great dies and the Hawaiian religious system is cast aside. 1819 The first whaling ship anchors in Maui at Lahaina. 1820 Christian missionaries arrive, filling the gap left by the abandonment of Hawaii’s traditional religion. 1831 Lahainaluna Seminary, the first secondary school west of the Rocky Mountains, is built
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fields. 1893 While attempting to restore Native Hawaiian rights, Queen Liliʻuokalani is overthrown by American businessmen. 1898 Hawaii is annexed by the USA and becomes a US territory. 1901 The Pioneer Inn, Maui’s first hotel, is built on the waterfront in Lahaina. 1927 Convict road gangs complete the construction of
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haupia (a delicious pudding made of coconut cream thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot). Haupia ice cream made on Maui offers a nice cross between traditional and modern cuisine. Hawaii Regional Cuisine Twenty years ago, Hawaii was a culinary backwater. Sure, you could slum it on local grinds (food) and get by on
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fishers to highlight fresh local fare and transform their childhood favorites into grown-up, gourmet masterpieces. The movement was dubbed ‘Hawaii Regional Cuisine’ and the pioneering chefs became celebrities. A trio with Maui connections are Roy Yamaguchi (Roy’s Kahana Bar & Grill in Kahana), Beverly Gannon (Haliʻimaile General Store) and Mark
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Ellman (Mala Ocean Tavern and Penne Pasta Café in Lahaina). The real catchwords for Hawaii Regional Cuisine are fresh, organic and locally grown. Think Upcountry greens, Maui chèvre (goat cheese), Kula onions, free-range Hana beef and locally caught fish. The spread of the movement has
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in Kula), have even started their own organic farms. And it’s all contributing to a greening of Maui’s gardens and menus. Drinks Hawaii is the only US state that grows coffee commercially. Both Maui and Molokaʻi have coffee farms, and their final products are certainly worth a try. However, the
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Peralta’s Riding Giants, which features three titans in big-wave surfing – Greg Noll, Jeff Clark and Laird Hamilton – hitting the waves on Maui. For more information, see the Hawaii Film Office (www.hawaiifilmoffice.com) website. Top of chapter Family Travel Surfing Goat Dairy (Click here) COURTESY OF SURFING GOAT DAIRY, PHOTO
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island has no polluting heavy industry and not a single roadside billboard to blight the natural vistas. Today, Maui and its residents are leaders in eco-activism. Maui was the first island in Hawaii to approve a ban on single-use plastic bags. Businesses and restaurants that violate the ordinance, which went
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have provided 10,000 houses of service. Visit the website for a current list of projects. Animals Most of Maui’s wildlife attractions are found in the water or on the wing. Hawaii has no native land mammals. Marine Life Of the almost 700 fish species living in Hawaiian waters, nearly one
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aeʻo (Hawaiian black-necked stilt), a wading bird with a white underbelly and long orange legs. Plants Maui seems suitable for just about anything with roots. On a mile-for-mile basis, Hawaii has the highest concentration of climatic and ecological zones anywhere on earth. They vary from lowland deserts along
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Visiting kitesurfers need to check with locals to clarify the no-fly zones. Get the lowdown from the Maui Kiteboarding Association (www.mauikiteboardingassociation.com) and Maui Kitesurfing Community (www.mauikitesurf.org) . Outrigger Canoeing Polynesians were Hawaii’s first settlers, paddling outrigger canoes across 2000 miles of open ocean – so you could say canoeing
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you should be a strong swimmer. Consider a class with paddle-surf champ Maria Souza in Kihei, or with the instructors at Maui Wave Riders in Lahaina. The Original Boardriders Hawaii is the birthplace of surfing. Researchers have traced chants mentioning heʻe nalu (surfing) and petroglyphs depicting surfers back to at
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whale population – come to the shallow coastal waters off the Hawaiian Islands to breed and give birth. And like other discerning visitors to Hawaii, these intelligent creatures favor Maui. The western coastline of the island is their chief birthing and nursing ground. Luckily for whale watchers, humpbacks are coast-huggers, preferring shallow
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a whistle to alert rescue workers if necessary, wear sunscreen and start early Horseback Riding With its abundant ranch land and vibrant cowboy culture, Maui offers some of Hawaii’s best riding experiences. Choose a ride based on the landscape you’d like to see, since all are friendly, reputable outfitters. The
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planted on the island by early-19th-century Christian missionaries in the gardens of Lahaina. Today it’s Maui’s official flower, the only exotic species of flora to be so recognized in Hawaii. » Lanaʻi A yellowish-orange vine, kaunaoa is traditionally gathered from the island’s windward shores, then
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their guests. In addition to places listed throughout this book, some B&Bs book only through agencies. The following agencies cover B&Bs on Maui. Bed & Breakfast Hawaii ( 822-7771; www.bandb-hawaii.com) Hawaii’s Best B&B ( 263-3100; www.bestbnb.com) Affordable Paradise ( 261-1693; www.affordable-paradise.com) CAMPING On
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your furry friend on a short vacation. » Most fresh fruits and plants cannot be brought into Hawaii. For complete details, contact the Hawaiian Department of Agriculture ( 973-9560; www.hawaii.gov/hdoa) . Gay & Lesbian Travelers » Maui is a popular destination for gay and lesbian travelers. The state has strong legislation to protect minorities
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entertainment venues, some Kihei bars and clubs have a gay night, and Kihei has a gay hotel, the Maui Sunseeker. Both Sides Now (www.mauigayinfo.com) For the full scoop on Maui’s gay scene. Hawaii Gay Travel ( 800-508-5996; www.hawaiigaytravel.com) Arranges travel geared to gay and lesbian travelers. Pacific
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operator can provide specific rate information and tell you which time periods are the cheapest for calling. Calls within Hawaii If you’re calling from one place on Maui to any other place on Maui you do not need to dial the 808 area code. However, you must dial 1 + 808 when making
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Handicapped (www.sath.org) A good resource with travel tips and access information for disabled travelers. Volunteering Opportunities for volunteering abound on Maui, providing a memorable experience of Hawaii’s people and environment that you won’t get by just passing through. Some require extended time commitments but lots ask for just
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lot of turnover, and hence openings, especially in Lahaina. Folks with language, scuba and culinary skills might investigate better-paying employment with resorts. Maui News (www.mauinews.com) Classified job ads. Hawaii Jobs (www.jobshawaii.com) Updated job openings. Top of chapter Transport Getting There & Away AIR AIRPORTS » Most mainland flights to
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air, you’ll have to fly via Honolulu or Kahului. Kahului International Airport (OGG; www.hawaii.gov/ogg) All transpacific flights to Maui arrive in Kahului, the island’s main airport. Kapalua Airport (JHM; www.hawaii.gov/jhm) Off Hwy 30, south of Kapalua, this regional airport has flights to other Hawaiian
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initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel. SEA The following cruise lines offer tours to Hawaii with stops on Maui. Holland America Cruise Line (www.hollandamerica.com) Typically departs from San Diego, Seattle or Vancouver. Norwegian Cruise Line (www.ncl.com) Operates
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not much to see in town. The 90-minute crossing through the Pailolo Channel can get choppy. BUS » With the exception of Oʻahu, Maui has Hawaii’s most extensive public bus system. But don’t get too excited – the buses can take you between the main towns, but they’re not
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Japan. So taken by the splendor of these tropical islands, Ned, along with Glenda, went on to author Lonely Planet’s first Hawaii guidebook. He’s gone back to Maui to work on Lonely Planet guides scores of times since, exploring the island from the depths of Molokini to the summit of
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choose, she’ll point to Maui every time. Together she and Ned wrote the first five editions of Lonely Planet’s Hawaii , and authored the previous edition of Lonely Planet’s Maui . Amy C Balfour Lahaina, West Maui, Kihei & South Maui, The People of Maui, Hawaii’s Cuisine, Hawaiian Arts & Crafts, Green Maui, Outdoor Adventures Amy first visited
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Hawaii as a toddler. According to family lore she was so
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happy to arrive, she ‘sprinkled’ all over the customs agent. For this book, she zipped down the West Maui mountains, clutched the
Frommer's Hawaii 2009
by Jeanette Foster · 2 Jan 2008 · 675pp · 344,555 words
especially in the winter months of November through March, when big ocean swells and strong winds move into Hawaii’s waters. OAHU WHERE TO STAY As we went to press, three counties in Hawaii—Honolulu, Maui, and Kauai—were still debating a bed-and-breakfast ordinance. One version would allow more B&Bs
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lava-lined holes; both offer wonderful scenery accompanied by strategic, championship-level golf. See p. 321. • Kapalua Resort (Maui; & 877/ KAPALUA): Kapalua is probably the best nationally known golf resort in Hawaii, thanks to the PGA Mercedes Championship played here each January. The Bay and Village courses are vintage Arnold Palmer
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steam room, and sauna before or after your treatment. See p. 276. Spa Moana at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort (Maui; & 808/6611234; www.maui.hyatt.com): You cannot match the location: This is Hawaii’s only oceanfront spa. The 20,000-square-foot spa houses 15 relaxing treatment rooms and features one of
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reiki, jin shin do, Swedish, aromatherapy, shiatsu, reflexology, and Thai. See p. 400. • Spa Grande at the Grand Wailea Resort Hotel (Maui; & 808/8751234; www.grandwailea.com): This is Hawaii’s biggest spa, at 50,000 square feet, with 40 treatment rooms. The spa incorporates the best of the Old World (romantic
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majestic purple carpet beneath the tree. MACADAMIA A transplant from Australia, macadamia nuts have become a commercial crop in recent decades in Hawaii, especially on the Big Island and Maui. The large trees—up to 60 feet tall—bear a hard-shelled nut encased in a leathery husk, which splits open
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check out Frommer’s Honolulu, Waikiki & Oahu; Frommer’s Honolulu & Oahu Day by Day; Frommer’s Kauai; Frommer’s Maui; Frommer’s Maui Day by Day; and Frommer’s Hawaii with Kids (all published by Wiley Publishing, Inc.). 06_285558-ch02.qxp 8/11/08 10:28 PM Page 41 H A
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s Kohala Coast Resort Association: www.kohalacoastresorts.com • Big Island Visitors Bureau: www.bigisland.org • Maui Visitors Bureau: www.visitmaui.com • Maui Net: www.maui.net • Maui Island Currents (arts and culture): www.islandcurrents.com • Molokai Visitors Association: www.molokai-hawaii.com • Lanai Visitors Bureau: www.visitlanai.net • Kauai Visitors Bureau: www.kauaivisitorsbureau.org •
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Kona, Big Island. A 3-day celebration of the Celebration of the Arts, Ritz-Carlton chocolate (cacao) that is grown and Kapalua, Kapalua Resort, Maui. Conproduced in Hawaii. Days 1 and 2 are temporary and traditional artists give filled with symposiums and seminars free hands-on lessons during this 4-day on
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tall Norfolk pine & 808/326-7820 (www.konacoffee and other trees in front of Honolulu fest.com). Hale, while on Maui, marching bands, floats, and Santa roll down Lahaina’s Hawaii International Film Festival, Front Street in an annual parade. various locations throughout the state. Molokai celebrates with a host of
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Honolulu from several West Coast cities (including new service from San Diego), plus nonstop service from Los Angeles to Maui. Northwest Airlines has a daily nonstop from Detroit to Honolulu. Airlines serving Hawaii from places other than the U.S. mainland include Air Canada; Air New Zealand; Qantas Airways; Japan Air
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check out Odyssey Publishing (& 888/729-1074; www.hawaiimap source.com), which has very detailed maps of East and West Hawaii, Maui, and Kauai. Another good source is the University of Hawaii Press maps, which include a detailed network of island roads, largescale insets of towns, historical and contemporary points of interest,
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Honolulu, HI 96806 (& 800/538-3950 or 808/ 538-3952). BY FERRY As we went to press, the Hawaii Superferry (& 877/HI-FERRY; www.hawaii superferry.com) had just begun service between Honolulu and Maui, with plans to add service between Honolulu and Kauai and between Honolulu and the Big Island. Current ticket
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community and related events, contact the Gay/Lesbian/Bisexual/Transgender Audio Bulletin Board (& 808/8236248). For the Big Island, Oahu, Maui, and Kauai, check out the website for Out in Hawaii (www.outinhawaii.com) for vacation ideas and a calendar of events. For more gay and lesbian travel resources, visit frommers.
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from $225 to a small fortune—it all depends on what you want. On the Big Island, contact Paradise Weddings Hawaii (& 800/4285844 or 808/883-9067; www.paradise weddingshawaii.com); on Maui, contact First Class Weddings (& 800/262-8433 or 808/877-1411; www.firstclassweddings. com); on Kauai, try Coconut
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voluptuous jungles bursting with bright color and birdsong, and moonlight sparkling on calm, turquoise seas. And everybody, it seems, knows it. Next to Waikiki, Maui is Hawaii’s most popular destination, welcoming 2.5 million people each year to its sunny shores. As soon as you arrive at Kahului Airport, a huge
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newly restored 1901 Pioneer Inn on the harbor), quaint bed-and-breakfasts, and a handful of oceanfront condos. KAANAPALI Farther north along the West Maui coast is Hawaii’s first master-planned family resort. Pricey midrise hotels line nearly 3 miles of gold-sand beach; they’re linked by a landscaped parkway
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. Note: You’ll find Kaanapali hotels on the “Lahaina & Kaanapali Accommodations & Attractions” map (p. 381). Very Expensive Kids Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Spa-goers will love this resort. Hawaii’s first oceanfront spa, the Spa Moana, opened here in 2000 with some 20,000 square feet of facilities, including an
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/ 367-5242 or 808/879-2778; www.crhmaui.com). KIHEI In addition to the choices below, consider the ResortQuest at the Maui Banyan (& 866/77-HAWAII or 808/875-0004; www.resortquesthawaii.com), a condo property across the street from Kamaole Beach Park II. The large one- to three-bedroom
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center for salsa and chimichangas. Barely more than a takeout counter with a few tables, this and the six other Maui Tacos in Hawaii (five on Maui alone) are popular with hungry surfers, discerning diners, burrito buffs, and Hollywood glitterati, like Sharon Stone, whose picture adorns a wall or two. Choices
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1970s), but most agree that there is a high degree of professionalism in both service and preparation. The Greek Maui Wowie salad gets my vote as one of the top salads in Hawaii. The rest of the menu features great fresh fish like opakapaka (one of the signature dishes), seared opah,
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from $39 for adults, $29 for children 5 to 12. Tip: Save $10 by booking the earlybird adventure, which leaves at 7:30am. WINDSURFING Maui has Hawaii’s best windsurfing beaches. In winter, windsurfers from around the world flock to the town of Paia to ride the waves; Hookipa Beach, known all
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No children under 13 are allowed. For those more “on vacation,” an easier jaunt costs just $80. For information on hikes given by the Hawaii Sierra Club on Maui, call & 808/ 573-4147 or go to www.hi.sierraclub.org. HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK For complete coverage of the national park, see p
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It’s open daily from 9:30am to 10pm; admission is free. K A PA L U A For generations, West Maui meant one thing: pineapple. Hawaii’s only pineapple cannery today, Maui Pineapple Co., offers tours of its plantation through the Kapalua Resort Activity Center (& 808/665-5491; www.kapaluamaui.com). Real
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the American Indian Dance Theatre, Jonny Lang, and Tony Bennett, not to mention Keali’i Reichel and the finest in local and Hawaii talent. The center is as precious to Maui as the Met is to New York, with a visual-arts gallery, an outdoor amphitheater, offices, rehearsal space, a 300-seat
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Kamakou nel an 2 Mokio Point 1 Honolulu THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LANAI KAHOOLAWE 0 0 Limi St. Paualaia Point 5 Kalaupapa Kalaupapa 100 mi MAUI 100 km 12 HAWAII “The Bi g Island” Ka lo KAUNAKAKAI 13 el 15 Kamalo Kamiloloa Kam eham Kawela V Hwy eha . 14 16 N nn el
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. Look for a wide spot in the road and a clearing that falls sharply to the sea. From here you can see Kahoolawe, Maui, the Big Island of Hawaii, and Molokini’s tiny crescent. Even the summits show. You can also see the silver domes of Space City on Haleakala in
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an endless supply of laid-back, lazy days that end with the sun sinking into the Pacific amid a blaze of glorious tropical color. MOLOKAI MAUI HAWAII 100 mi 100 km Allerton Garden 5 Fern Grotto 11 Grove Farm Homestead Museum 8 Hanalei Bridge 16 Hanalei Valley lookout 15 Ka Ulu O
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(also known as gas, but never petrol), is abnormally high. At this writing, average prices for regular gas in Hawaii range from $3.56 in Honolulu to $3.95 on Maui and a whopping $4.62 on Lanai. Note that taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S
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Bong Brothers (Big Island), 292, 353 BookEnds (Oahu), 247 Books, recommended, 40–42 Borders (Honolulu), 239 Boss Frog’s Dive and Surf Shops (Maui), 439 BottomTime Hawaii (Big Island), 314 Bowfin, USS, Submarine Museum & Park (Oahu), 209–210 Box jellyfish, 68 Bridges, one-lane (Kauai), 619 Brothers Cazimero (Honolulu), 252 Brown-
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(Honolulu), 250, 252 The Challenge at Manele (Lanai), 536–537 Chamberlain House (Honolulu), 226 Chamber of Commerce of Hawaii, 48 Charley’s Restaurant (Maui), 490 Charter Services Hawaii (Big Island), 316 Cheeseburger in Paradise (Maui), 488 Chinaman’s Hat (Oahu), 230 Chinatown (Honolulu), 107 lei vendors, 243 walking tour, 215–219 Chinatown Cultural
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, 504–505 brief description, 495–496 grocery, 521 restaurant, 503 sights and attractions, 515–517 Easter Sunrise Service (Oahu), 56 East Hawaii Cultural Center (Big Island), 359 East Maui accommodations, 404–408 beaches, 438–439 brief description, 374–375 restaurants, 428–432 shopping, 485–486 sights and attractions, 469–474 East
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64 Friendly Market Center (Molokai), 519 Friends for Fitness (Big Island), 320 Frommers.com, 73 Fujioka’s Wine Merchants (Honolulu), 240–241 Fun Hogs Hawaii (Molokai), 507 G allery Maui (Maui), 483 Gallery of Great Things (Big Island), 356 Garden of the Gods (Lanai), 9, 538 Gardens and arboretums, 8–9 Big Island
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Hawaii Geographic Society, Honolulu tours, 201 Hawaii International Film Festival, 60 Hawaii International Jazz Festival (Honolulu), 58 Hawaii Island B&B Association, 263 Hawaii Island Gourmet Products (Big Island), 303 Hawaii Kai Golf Course (Oahu), 196 Hawaii Kai Gourmet (Molokai), 520 Hawaii Maritime Center (Honolulu), 206, 221 Hawaii Naniloa Hotel’s Crown Room (Big Island), 365 Hawaii Nature Center (Maui), 459 Hawaii
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Nature Center (Oahu), 190 Hawaii Ocean Rafting (Maui), 442 16_285558-
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bindex.qxp 8/11/08 10:52 PM Page 647 INDEX Hawaii Opera Theatre
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(Honolulu), 254 Hawaii’s Plantation Village
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(Oahu), 211 Hawaii State Art Museum
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(Honolulu), 213, 225 Hawaii State Capitol (Honolulu), 224 Hawaii State Farm Fair (Honolulu), 58 Hawaii State Windsurfing Championship (Maui
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), 58 Hawaii
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Superferry, 1, 64 Hawaii Temple of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter
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-day Saints (Oahu), 232 Hawaii Theatre (Honolulu), 219, 254 Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden
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(Big Island), 337–338 Hawaii Visitors & Convention Bureau (HVCB),
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), 351 Island RV & Safari Activities, 263 Islands’ Best (Honolulu), 239 Island Seaplane Service (Oahu), 201 Islandwide Taxi & Tours (Maui), 376 Israel, Zeke, 362 Itineraries, suggested, 89–101 It’s Chili in Hawaii (Honolulu), 241 Izumo Taisha Mission Cultural Hall (Honolulu), 218 J ack Harter (Kauai), 616 Jack’s Diving Locker (Big
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Safari, 535 Langenstein Farms (Big Island), 292 Lanikai Beach (Oahu), 4, 180–181, 230 Lantern Floating Hawaii (Oahu), 56 Lapakahi State Historical Park (Big Island), 332 La Pérouse Monument (Maui), 464 La Pérouse Pinnacle (off Maui), 445 Laupahoehoe Beach Park (Big Island), 338 Lawai (Kauai), 622 Lawai Gardens (Kauai), 611 Leeward Oahu
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Kauai), 549, 630 Princeville Ranch Hiking Adventures (Kauai), 601 Princeville Ranch Stables (Kauai), 609 Princeville Tennis Club (Kauai), 610 Printing Office (Honolulu), 226 Proteas of Hawaii (Maui), 484 Puako (Big Island), 315 Puako Petroglyph Archaeological District (Big Island), 331–332 Pua Mau Place (Big Island), 334 Pukalani
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Molokai, 518–521 Oahu, 237–249 Shops at Mauna Lani (Big Island), 355 The Shops at Wailea (Maui), 482 Shung Chong Yuein (Honolulu), 219 Sierra Club, Hawaii Chapter of the, 75, 78 Kauai, 600 Maui, 448 Oahu, 190 Sig Zane Designs (Big Island), 360 Silk Road Gallery (Big Island), 357 Silver Moon
Hawaii
by Jeff Campbell · 4 Nov 2009
(Click here). Wildlife Watching By wildlife we mean the big fellas – humpback whales, dolphins – and endangered native species like the nene (native goose), Hawaii’s state bird. Whale watching: Maui’s West Coast (Click here), the Big Island’s Kona Coast (Click here), Kaua‘i’s West Side (Click here). Bird watching
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’ve got money and you want culture, outdoor adventure and peaceful relaxation in equal measure. Combine O’ahu, Maui and Lana’i – half the time, you won’t even need to drive. You get Hawaii’s only metropolis, its fluffiest beaches and its quietest island. It’s 300 miles, more or less
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1959, to 1.3 million, but still, on any given day one out of nine people on O’ahu was a tourist; on Maui, one out of three. Hawaii’s unique environment and endemic species were being threatened by invasive species and loss of habitat, and off-island real-estate speculators and
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Wai’alae Country Club on O’ahu and the Mercedes-Benz Championship at Kapalua Plantation Course (Click here) on Maui. * * * Hawaii’s latest sports star is Maui native and baseball player Shane Victorino, ‘the flying Hawaiian,’ who won a Gold Glove on his way to helping the Philadelphia Phillies win the 2008
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Suisan Fish Market (Hawai′i the Big Island; Click here) Koloa Fish Market (Kaua′i; Click here) Eskimo Candy (Maui; Click here) Ono Seafood (O′ahu; Click here) * * * Luau In ancient Hawaii, a luau commemorated auspicious occasions, such as births, war victories or successful harvests. In modern times, the ‘commercial luau’ arose
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the rage across the islands; they vary in price and formality. On O′ahu, Restaurant Week Hawaii (Click here) is a great chance to check out the gamut of venues offering special menus and deals. Maui boasts a spate of such events, including the Kapalua Wine & Food Festival (Click here). Kaua′i
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; Click here) frozen-fruit frosties at Banana Joe’s (Kaua′i; Click here) Sam Sato’s manju, Japanese cake filled with sweet bean paste (Maui; Click here) manapua (Hawaii version of Chinese-style steamed or baked buns) in local flavors (eg kalua pig, sweet potato, coconut) from Royal Kitchen (O′ahu; Click
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, but by the 1950s there were only 30 left. Intensive breeding programs have raised their numbers to around 2000 on Hawai′i, Maui, Kaua′i and Moloka‘i. * * * The Hawaii Audubon Society (www.hawaiiaudubon.com) publishes the best bird guide and its website has bird-viewing suggestions for each island, and a
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advice, see Getting Started, Click here, and the boxed text, Click here. * * * Return to beginning of chapter NATIONAL, STATE & COUNTY PARKS Hawaii has two national parks: Haleakalā National Park on Maui and Hawai′i Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island. Both have volcanoes as centerpieces, contain an astonishing range of environments
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predict they will), half of Waikiki hotels would be under water. The Sierra Club (www.hi.sierraclub.org) is perhaps Hawaii’s most active environmental organization, with groups on O′ahu, Maui, Kaua′i and Hawai′i. In addition to political lobbying and legal actions, it publishes an informative newsletter and sponsors
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person on foot, bicycle or motorcycle $5) never closes. The toll station also sells two annual passes: a three-park Hawaii pass ($25, including HAVO, Pu′uhonua o Honaunau, and Haleakalā on Maui) and one for all national parks ($80). Kilauea Visitor Center (Map; 985-6017; 7:45am-5pm) should be your
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-grid Laulima Farms (Click here) Watch the sunset from glorious Big Beach (Click here) POPULATION: 120,000 AREA: 728 SQ MILES NICKNAME: VALLEY ISLE * * * HISTORY Maui’s early history mirrors the rest of Hawaii’s, with warring chiefs, periods of peace, missionaries, whalers and sugarcane. At the time of statehood in 1959
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first resort destination outside Waikiki. Things really took off in 1974 with the first nonstop flight between the mainland USA and Kahului. Maui soon blossomed into the darling of Hawaii’s tourism industry. Its growth spurt hasn’t always been pretty. In the mid-1970s the beachside village of Kihei was pounced
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willy-nilly building sprees. More recent development has taken a decidedly upscale approach, leaving Maui with some fancy resorts and the highest room rates in Hawaii. CLIMATE Sun-worshippers will want to hightail it to Maui’s west coast, which boasts dry, sunny conditions from Kapalua in the north to Makena in the
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* * * * * * A WHALE OF A TIME It’s not just honeymooners that flock here – turns out humpback whales prefer Maui too. In winter they can be spotted throughout Hawaii but the waters off western Maui are the favored haunt for mating and birthing. Fortunately, humpbacks are coast-huggers, preferring shallow waters to protect their
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zip side by side with a friend. GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Most travelers to Maui land in Kahului, which has the busiest airport in Hawaii outside Honolulu. North of Lahaina in west Maui, the Kapalua/West Maui Airport is Maui’s second largest airport but it’s strictly for inter-island flights. Tiny Hana Airport
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on ferry schedules and ticket prices, Click here for sailings of the Moloka′i Princess to Moloka′i and Click here for Expeditions’ Maui–Lana′i ferry. The Hawaii Superferry, which once connected Kahului and Honolulu, has ceased operations; for details, see the boxed text, Click here. GETTING AROUND If you really
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to do your exploring by pedal power. For information on bicycle rentals, see specific destinations around the island. Bus With the exception of O′ahu, Maui has Hawaii’s most extensive public bus system. But don’t get too excited – the buses can take you between the main towns, but they’re
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-2220). Tours A handful of tour bus companies operate half-day and full-day sightseeing tours on Maui. Roberts Hawaii ( 866-898-2591; www.roberts-hawaii.com; tours from $60-100), a giant among Hawaiian tour companies, typically offers the best prices and most variety. The most popular routes include day-
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capital remained there until 1845. The first Christian missionaries arrived in the 1820s and within a decade Hawaii’s first stone church, first missionary school and first printing press were all in place in Lahaina. * * * MAUI ITINERARIES In Two Days Start day one strolling the old whaling town of Lahaina (opposite), follow
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’s best waterfront fine dining, stop the search here. The handiwork of chef James McDonald features Hawaii Regional Cuisine with scrumptious creations like seared fresh catch in mango cream, island-raised filet mignon with tempura Maui onions and guava-glazed coconut cheesecake. McDonald is so obsessed with freshness that he started an
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dance competition in early November at Ka′anapali Beach Hotel, which features some of the best keiki dancers in Hawaii. Na Mele O Maui (www.kaanapaliresort.com) This event, which translates as ‘Song of Maui,’ features children’s choral groups singing traditional songs in Hawaiian. Lots and lots of aloha at this event
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2200 Kahana, the village north of Honokowai, boasts million-dollar homes, upscale beachfront condominium complexes and Maui’s only microbrewery. Information The Kahana Gateway (4405 Honoapi′ilani Hwy) shopping center has a gas station, Bank of Hawaii ( 669-3922), Kahana Koin-op Laundromat ( 669-1587; last wash 8pm) and Whalers General Store
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( 669-6999; Kahana Gateway, 4405 Honoapi′ilani Hwy; mains $30-40; 5:30-10pm) You’ll find outstanding Hawaii Regional Cuisine at this outpost of famed Honolulu-chef-guru Roy Yamaguchi. His Maui flagship woos diners with savory dishes like blackened ahi with Chinese mustard and the coriander pork chops in plum
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culinary extravaganza held over four days in late June at the Ritz-Carlton, it features renowned winemakers and Hawaii’s hottest chefs in cooking demonstrations and wine tastings. Billabong Pro Maui (www.billabongpro.com/maui) This annual women’s title race, held at Honolua Bay when the surf’s up in mid-December
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Kahului than first meets the eye. History Fronted by the island’s deepwater harbor, Kahului has long been the commercial heart of Maui. In the 1880s it became headquarters to Hawaii’s first railroad, built to haul sugar from the refineries to the port. In 1900 an outbreak of bubonic plague hit
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Rd, to the south, links to both Lahaina (take Hwy 380) and Kihei (take Hwy 311). Information Bank of Hawaii ( 871-8250; 27 S Pu′unene Ave) Borders Books & Music Café ( 877-6160; Maui Marketplace, 270 Dairy Rd; 9am-10pm Sun-Thu, 9am-11pm Fri & Sat) Good selection of maps, Hawaiiana books
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Ho′alu Slack Key Guitar Festival (www.mauiarts.org) At this event held on the lawn of the Maui Arts & Cultural Center in late June, top slack key guitarists from throughout Hawaii take the stage. Maui Marathon (www.mauimarathon.com) Held in mid-September, this road race begins at the Queen Ka′ahumanu
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salads too. * * * BEAT YOUR OWN PATH Ready to get down to some nitty-gritty exploring? Dusty Wailuku offers a bevy of historic treasures. Hawaii’s best-known architect, Maui-born CW Dickey, left his mark in this town before moving on to fame in Honolulu. The c 1928 public library (cnr High
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in the windsurfing haven of Pa′ia, then follow the serpentine Hana Hwy for the jaw-droppingly dramatic drive to Hana. Maui’s most Hawaiian town dishes up a taste of Hawaii the way it used to be: s-l-o-w, friendly and quintessentially local. Beyond Hana lies Haleakalā National Park
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-guided/guided tour $10/25; self-guided tour 10am-2pm Mon-Fri, guided tour 10am-noon Sat) deliver a double blast of mana. Hawaii’s largest temple and Maui’s most important ethnobotanical garden share this 294-acre site operated by the National Tropical Botanical Garden. The gardens preserve rare and medicinal
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who stay awhile will experience an authentic slice of aloha. History It’s hard to imagine little Hana as the epicenter of Maui but this village produced many of ancient Hawaii’s most influential ali′i. Hana’s great 14th-century chief Pi′ilani marched from here to conquer rivals in Wailuku
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) US Airways (airline code US; 800-428-4322; www.usairways.com) Sea In late 2007, the Hawaii Superferry (www.hawaiisuperferry.com) launched its first commuter ferry, the Alakai, amid controversy. While the O′ahu–Maui route was active for just over a year, all service was indefinitely terminated in March 2009 due
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this guide, and also get advice from local county and state parks departments; they are usually very upfront about campground conditions and safety. Hawaii’s two national parks – Maui’s Haleakalā National Park (Click here) and the Big Island’s Hawai′i Volcanoes National Park (Click here) – have excellent camping. Both have
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basic housekeeping cabins. For more specifics, see the O′ahu (Click here), Big Island (Click here), Maui (Click here), Moloka′i (Click here) and Kaua′i (Click here) chapters. * * * SMOKE-FREE HAWAII On November 16, 2006, Hawaii became the 14th state in the US to pass comprehensive antismoking legislation. It is now illegal
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online weather forecast, but for the coolest infrared and satellite images, visit the University of Hawaii Meteorology Department (http://weather.hawaii.edu). Return to beginning of chapter COURSES Some resorts and shopping centers, for example Whalers Village on Maui (Click here), offer free or low-cost classes and workshops in hula, traditional Hawaiian
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) on the Big Island and Haleakalā National Park (Click here) on Maui. Here is a list of more organizations gratefully accepting volunteers, some specific to one island: Give the Reef a Break (www.iyor-hawaii.org) Hawaii Audubon Society (www.hawaiiaudubon.com) Hawaii Nature Center (www.hawaiinaturecenter.org) Coordinates voluntourism on O′ahu. Hawai
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the front of each island chapter. Flights to Lana’i and Moloka’i originate only from Honolulu or Maui. Tickets Naturally, the internet is the first place to look for low airfares. But in Hawaii, one travel agency specializing in discount tickets and packages is Panda Travel (738-3898, 800-303-6702
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at the last minute and doesn’t guarantee a specific flight. Currently, flights to Honolulu, Kaua’i, Maui and the Big Island depart from San Francisco and Los Angeles. The nonstop flight time to Hawaii is about 5½ hours from the West Coast. East Coast flights range from 11 to 15 hours
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cruises last two weeks, and airfare to and from the departure point costs extra. Longer cruises include Hawaii in wider South Pacific voyages. Most Hawaiian cruises include stopovers in Honolulu, Maui, Kaua’i and the Big Island. Cruise lines include the following: Holland America Cruise Line (877-932-4259; www.hollandamerica.com
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Big Island), and Lihu’e (on Kaua’i). Click here for details. Moloka’i and Lana’i are usually approached by ferry service from Maui. Airlines in Hawaii The demise of Aloha Airlines in 2008 is one indication of the upheaval that interisland air travel is currently experiencing. Expect further schedule changes
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cruises make round-trips from Honolulu and visit the four main islands. From 2007 to early 2009, Hawaii Superferry (www.hawaiisuperferry.com) ran a high-speed, passenger-and-car ferry service between Honolulu and Maui (with planned service between Honolulu and the Big Island). However, it was forced to shut down in
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; these are noted in text (like Saddle Rd on the Big Island and the Road to Hana on Maui). Expect to pay at least 50¢ more per US gallon than on the mainland. Average Hawaii gas prices soared to new highs in 2008, to well over $4 a gallon, and then in
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nonfiction books, Sara also contributed to Lonely Planet’s Honolulu, Waikiki & O’ahu and Hiking in Hawaii guides. Return to beginning of chapter Ned Friary & Glenda Bendure Maui Ned and Glenda first laid eyes on Hawaii after leaving the concrete jungle of Japan, where they’d been teaching English for several years. They
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Gregg Kaua’i (North Shore & Westside), Ni’ihau One of Amanda Gregg’s earliest memories is jumping on a Maui hotel bed with her little sister, announcing plans to someday live in Hawaii – and here she is, calling Kaua’i’s Eastside home. Growing up in Massachusetts, Amanda’s first love was
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’s been back often, usually renting a beachside house where, between novels, he looks without envy at the busy lights of Maui across the channel. For this edition of Hawaii, Ryan brings his journalistic skills to Lanai’i and Moloka’i, two places that had previously only tested his holiday skills. Return
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Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 2009 © photographers as indicated 2009 Cover photograph: front view of green sea turtle midwater, Maui, Hawaii, Dave Fleetham/Photolibrary. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com. All rights reserved. No
Fodor's Hawaii 2013
by Fodor's · 22 Jul 2012
Credits and Copyright Main Table of Contents Experience Hawaii Hawaii Oahu Downtown Honolulu and Chinatown Greater Honolulu Waikiki West Waikiki East Southeast Oahu Windward Oahu The North Shore, Central, and West Oahu Oahu Beaches Maui West Maui Lahaina The South Shore Kahului-Wailuku Central Maui and Upcountry East Maui Hana Maui Beaches: West, South, and North Shores
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Maui Beaches: East Shore and Hana The Big Island The Big Island of Hawaii Kailua-Kona The Kona Coast The Kohala Coast and Waimea
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$30 to Waikiki). Other options: TheBus ($2.50, one lap-size bag allowed), SpeediShuttle ($14.55), and the Roberts Hawaii Express Shuttle ($12). Maui: Most visitors arrive at Kahului Airport in Central Maui. For trips to Molokai or Lanai, ferries are available to both islands and have room for your golf clubs and
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get to Princeville or Hanalei. Kauai roads are subject to some pretty heavy traffic, especially going through Kapaa and Lihue. Hawaii’s Best Festivals and Events February: Chinese New Year: Lahaina, Maui, and in Chinatown on Oahu. Waimea Town Celebration: Waimea, Kauai. March: Prince Kuhio Day Celebration: Lihue, Kauai. April: Merrie Monarch
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sugarcane, both of which have all but vanished. Sugarcane is now produced in only two plants on Kauai and Maui, while pineapple production has dropped precipitously. Dole, once the largest pineapple company in Hawaii, closed its plants in 1991, and after 90 years, Del Monte stopped pineapple production in 2008. The next
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of residents live in or around Honolulu, so the rest of the island still fits neatly into the tropical, untouched vision of Hawaii. Situated southeast of Kauai and northwest of Maui, Oahu is a central location for island hopping. Pearl Harbor, iconic Waikiki Beach, and surfing contests on the legendary North Shore
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competes with Oahu in terms of entertainment; its charm lies in the fact that although entertainment is available, Maui’s towns still feel like island villages compared to the heaving modern city of Honolulu. Hawaii (The Big Island). The Big Island has the second largest population of the Islands (almost 190,000
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get away from it all—lush and peaceful, it’s the perfect escape from the modern world. Molokai. North of Lanai and Maui, and east of Oahu, Molokai is Hawaii’s fifth-largest island, encompassing 260 square miles. On a clear night, the lights of Honolulu are visible from Molokai’s western
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during peak whale-watching season, visit the Whalers Village Museum, the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary or the Maui Ocean Center (to get an up close look at some of Hawaii’s smaller sea creatures). Away from the water, there’s the Sugar Cane Train. Plan to spend at least
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-watching than Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge. Plan to spend at least 3 nights. Volcanic Views: The Big Island and Maui For those coming to Hawaii for the volcanoes, there are really only two options: The Big Island and Maui. Why the Big Island: Start by flying into Hilo and head straight to
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world for astronomy), but also Kilauea and Haleakala volcanoes, which loom in the distance. Plan to spend at least 4 nights. Why Maui: Though all the islands in Hawaii were built from the same hot spot in Earth’s crust, the only other island to have had volcanic activity in recorded history
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at the Waikiki Community Center, and the North Shore Country Market at Sunset in Haleiwa. The Hawaii Farm Bureau (whfbf.org/markets) has information and weekly tip sheets about farmers’ markets on O’ahu. Maui Exotic oddities and fresh organic produce are wowing attendees of the Ono Organic Farms farmers’ market near
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, and they may also spot turtles and dolphins at many of the island beaches. Land Activities In addition to beach experiences, Hawaii has rain forests, botanical gardens, aquariums (Oahu and Maui), and even petting zoos and hands-on children’s museums that will keep your kids entertained and out of the sun
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cruise lines, Holland America has a reputation for service and elegance. Holland America’s Hawaii cruises leave from and return to San Diego, California, with a brief stop at Ensenada. In Hawaii, the ship ties up at port in Maui (Lahaina), the Big Island (Hilo), Oahu, and Kauai (Nawiliwili). Holland America also offers
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| www.hawaiinautical.com. Norwegian Cruise Lines. Norwegian is the only major operator to offer interisland cruises in Hawaii. Pride of America sails year-round and offers seven-day itineraries within the Islands stopping on Maui, Oahu, the Big Island (Hilo), and overnighting on Kauai. The ship has a vintage Americana theme and
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soaps, honey, tea, salt, chocolates, art, and CDs. Every item, in fact, is carefully selected from various Hawaii companies, artisans, and farms, from the salt fields of Molokai to the lavender farms on Maui to the single-estate chocolate on Oahu’s North Shore. | Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. | Honolulu
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migrating humpbacks can be seen off the island’s coast from December to April, and sometimes into May. History Maui’s history is full of firsts—Lahaina was the first capital of Hawaii and the first destination of the whaling industry (early 1800s), which explains why the town still has that fishing
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press in Lahaina (the first west of the Rockies), which rolled out the news in Hawaiian. Maui also boasts the first sugar plantation in Hawaii (1849) and the first Hawaiian luxury resort (Hotel Hana-Maui, 1946: now the Travaasa Hana). On Maui Today In the mid-1970s, savvy marketers saw a way to improve
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-breakfast. Check Internet sites and ask about discounts and packages. Visitor Information The Hawaii Visitors & Convention Bureau (HVCB) has plenty of general and vacation-planning information for Maui and all the Islands, and offers a free official vacation planner. The Maui Visitors Bureau website includes information on accommodations, sights, events, and suggested itineraries
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) herd cattle on rolling, fertile ranchlands reminiscent of northern California. On the island’s rugged east side is the lush, tropical Hawaii of travel posters. Nature isn’t all Maui has to offer—it’s also home to a rich and vivid culture. In small towns like Paia and Hana you can
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reputation for attitude and action. Once upon a time, this was the haunt of whalers, missionaries, and the kings and queens of Hawaii; now it’s one of Maui’s main resort areas. Lahaina Town was not only once the kingdom’s capital but also the alii’s (royalty’s) playground. Today
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lobster) and its seaside cliffs. Puu Kekaa, today incorrectly referred to as “Black Rock,” was a lele |a place in ancient Hawaii from which souls leaped into the afterlife. (Today this site is near the Sheraton Maui.) But times changed and the sleepy fishing village was washed away by the wave of
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native Hawaiian plants and a fine example of a traditional canoe. TIP The gift shop is one of the best sources on Maui for items that are actually made in Hawaii. | 2375A Main St. | 96793 | 808/244–3326 | www.mauimuseum.org | $7 | Mon.–Sat. 10–4. Fodor’s Choice | Iao Valley State
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hikes easy enough for children. The peacefulness here belies the history of the area. In 1790, King Kamehameha the Great from the Island of Hawaii waged a successful and bloody battle against Kahekili, the son of Maui’s chief. An earlier battle at the site had pitted Kahekili himself against an older
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–7643 | www.mauitropicalplantation.com | Free; $15 for tram ride | Daily 9–5. Upcountry Maui The west-facing upper slopes of Haleakala are locally called “Upcountry.” This region is responsible for much of Hawaii’s produce—lettuce, tomatoes, strawberries, sweet Maui onions, and much, much more. You’ll notice cactus thickets mingled with purple
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. Waterfalls, phenomenal views of the coast and ocean, and lush rain forest are all part of the spectacular 55-mile drive into East Maui. Previous Map | Next Map | Hawaii Maps Paia 9 miles east of Kahului; 4 miles west of Haiku. At the intersection of Hana Highway and Baldwin Avenue, Paia has
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| www.ntbg.org | $10 | Weekdays 10–2. Guided tour Sat. | 96713. Previous Map | Next Map | Hawaii Maps Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents West Maui | The South Shore | The North Shore | Road to Hana Updated by Heidi Pool Of all the
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steep, but waves hit the shore with barely a rippling slap. The area at the northernmost end (in front of the Sheraton Maui), known as Kekaa, was, in ancient Hawaii, a lele, or jumping-off place for spirits. It’s easy to get into the water from the beach to enjoy the
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bay over from Slaughterhouse (Mokuleia) Beach north of Kapalua, you can find one of the best surf breaks in Hawaii. Kapalua Bay, West Maui. The atmosphere here is as stunning as the sunset. Keawakapu, the South Shore. Most active beachgoers enjoy this gorgeous spot before midafternoon when the wind
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: $195 | Facilities: Driving range, putting green, golf carts, rental clubs, lessons, restaurant, bar. Fodor’s Choice | Kapalua Resort. Perhaps Hawaii’s best-known golf resort and the crown jewel of golf on Maui, Kapalua hosts the PGA Tour’s first event each January: the Hyundai Tournament of Champions at the Plantation Course
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-handers, which means you don't have to schlep clubs across the Pacific. • Come spikeless—very few Hawaii courses still permit metal spikes. And most of the resort courses require a collared shirt. • Maui is notorious for its trade winds. Consider playing early if you want to avoid the wind, and remember
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to look like a sprawling ’30s beach house represents a partnership between TS Restaurants group and Hawaii Regional Cuisine pioneer chef Peter Merriman. They serve up large dinner portions of everything from fresh local fish and Maui Cattle Company beef to Hula Grill “traditions” like rosemary- and wood-roasted rack of lamb
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; and grilled beef tenderloin marinated in coffee and served with Parmesan-garlic fries. The restaurant claims the largest wine cellar in Hawaii with 3,000 bottles. | Average main: $40 | Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr. | Kaanapali | 96761 | 808/667–4506 | www.tristarrestaurants.com | No lunch. Tiki Terrace. $$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | Executive chef
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, upscale Hawaiian food. He augments the various fresh fish dishes on his menu with items influenced by Hawaii’s ethnic mix. This casual, open-air restaurant is the only place on Maui—maybe in Hawaii—where you can have a Native Hawaiian combination plate that is as healthful as it is authentic. Sunday
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Golf Club Dr. | Wailea | 96753 | 808/875–8080 | www.gannonsrestaurant.com. Spago. $$$$ | ASIAN | It’s a marriage made in Hawaii heaven. The California cuisine of celebrity-chef Wolfgang Puck is combined with Maui flavors and served lobby level and oceanfront at the luxurious Four Seasons Resort. Try the spicy ahi tuna poke
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premier fabric designer, Sig Zane. A hearty, delicious breakfast is served in the lovely dining room. Pros: the charm of Old Hawaii; knowledgeable innkeepers; walking distance to Maui’s best ethnic restaurants. Cons: closest beach is a 20-minute drive away; you may hear some traffic at certain times. TripAdvisor: “sheer perfection
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| 808/882–5810 | www.maunakeabeachhotel.com | No lunch. Merriman’s Market Café. $$ | MEDITERRANEAN | From Peter Merriman, one of Hawaii’s star chefs, comes a more affordable alternative to his upscale Waimea and Maui restaurants. The Mediterranean-influenced menu includes a variety of pasta dishes, tasty appetizers, and salads teeming with fresh ingredients
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from early morning until evening. In addition, some carriers now offer nonstop service directly from the mainland to Maui, Kauai, and the Big Island on a limited basis. No matter the island, all of Hawaii’s airports are “open-air,” meaning you can enjoy those trade-wind breezes up until the moment
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am to 10 pm every day. Information Honolulu International Airport (HNL). 808/836–6411 | www.hawaii.gov/hnl. Maui Airports Maui has two airports. Kahului Airport handles major airlines and interisland flights; it’s the only airport on Maui that has direct service from the mainland. If you’re arriving from another island and
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drive to Hana. Information Kahului Airport (OGG). 808/872–3830 | hawaii.gov/ogg. Kapalua–West Maui Airport (JHM). 808/665–6108 | hawaii.gov/jhm. Hana Airport (HNM). 808/248–4861 | hawaii.gov/hnm. Big Island Airports Those flying to the Big Island of Hawaii regularly land at one of two fields. Kona International Airport at
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. 808/848–5555 | www.thebus.org. Waikiki Trolley. 808/591–2561, 800/824–8804 | www.waikikitrolley.com. Maui Maui Bus, operated by Roberts Hawaii, offers 10 routes in and between various Central, South, and West Maui communities, seven days a week, including all holidays. Passengers can travel in and around Wailuku, Kahului, Lahaina, Kaanapali
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’ Pride of America. Perillo Tours offers a 7-day two-islander tour to Oahu and Maui and a 10-day three-islander tour to Oahu, Maui and Kauai. Tauck Travel and Trafalgar offer several land-based Hawaii itineraries with plenty of free time to explore the Islands. If you want to stay longer
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Escaño-Vasquez was raised in Manila, Philippines, and lived in California before falling deeply in aloha with Maui in 2005. She is a contributing writer for Maui Concierge and Modern Luxury Hawaii. For this edition she updated the Maui Water Sports and Tours, Shopping, Spas, and Entertainment and Nightlife sections. Eliza currently resides in
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Sports And Tours, Hiroyuki Saita/shutterstock.com Golf, Hiking, And Outdoor Activities, Big Island Visitors Bureau Shopping, catscandotcom/istockphoto Spas, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, Kaíanapali Entertainment And Nightlife, Hawaii Convention & Visitors Bureau Where To Eat, iStockphoto Where To Stay, Four Seasons Hualalai/Rothenborg, Kyle Kauai, Kaua’i Visitors Bureau Welcome To
Lonely Planet Best of Hawaii
by Lonely Planet · 453pp · 79,218 words
Iki Overlook & Trail Halema‘uma‘u Viewpoint Top Day Hikes Crater Rim Drive Beaches Sights Activities Shopping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Entertainment Getting There In Focus Hawaii Today History People & Culture Hawaiian Arts & Crafts Outdoor Activities Cuisine Survival Guide Directory A–Z Accommodations Electricity Entry & Exit Requirements Customs Regulations Food Gay &
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walls and discreet signage, Wailea looks like a members-only country club and is South Maui’s most elite haunt. Amenities shine. If you’re not staying here, say a loud mahalo (thank you) for Hawaii’s beach-access laws that allow you to visit these beautiful strands anyway, with dedicated
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condo rental: more than $250 oThree-course meal with a cocktail in a top restaurant: $75–125 oGuided outdoor adventure tour: $80–200 Useful Websites Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau (www.gohawaii.com) Official tourism site; comprehensive events calendar and multilingual planning guides. Hawaiʻi Magazine (www.hawaiimagazine.com) All-
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island news, features, food and drink, and travel tips. Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/usa/hawaii) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveler forum and more. Hana Hou! (www.hanahou.com) Hawaiian Airlines’ engaging in-flight magazine, with feature stories available free
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period extremely busy and expensive. 2Honolulu Marathon Held on the second Sunday in December, the Honolulu Marathon is Hawaii’s biggest and most popular foot race. Plan Your Trip Get Inspired Read The Maui Coast: Legacy of the King’s Highway (Daniel Sullivan; 2015) Vibrant photo book. The Wave (Susan Casey;
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, mysterious valleys and deserted beaches await. BENNY MARTY/SHUTTERSTOCK © STEPHANIE COFFMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK © DONLAND/SHUTTERSTOCK © Plan Your Trip Family Travel With its phenomenal natural beauty, Hawaii appeals to families. Instead of hanging out in shopping malls, kids can play on sandy beaches, snorkel amid colorful tropical fish and even watch lava
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-Feb, 5:45-8:45pm Mar-May & Sep, 6:15-9:15pm Jun-Aug; c) Hawaii’s most authentic, aloha-filled luau comes with music, dancing and an imu-cooked whole roasted pig, on Maui. Pearl Harbor Squeeze inside a WWII-era submarine; pace a battleship’s decks; or become a
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exist and I’ll always be able to return to them.’ Manoa Falls Trail | BARRY WINIKER/GETTY IMAGES © Water Giver StatueStatue (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Hawaii Convention Center, 1801 Kalakaua Ave) Fronting the Honolulu Convention Center, this magnificent statue symbolically acknowledges the Hawaiian people for their generosity and expressions of goodwill
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-2739; http://mauibrewingco.com; 2300 Kalakaua Ave, 2nd fl, Holiday Inn Resort Waikiki Beachcomber; h11am-11pm) Hawaii’s largest bar opened in 2017 and features over two dozen of the great microbrews from Maui Brewing. Under lights made from kegs, you can lounge back in the vast and airy space, enjoying
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for you and shower immediately after. Waikapala‘e Wet Cave | STEVE HEAP/SHUTTERSTOCK © Backyard Graveyards Ancient burial sites lie underneath countless homes and hotels throughout Hawaii. Construction workers often dig up iwi (bones) and moepu (funeral objects), while locals swear by eerie stories of equipment malfunctioning until bones are properly
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the extraordinary relationship between the ancient Hawaiians and their environment. RON DAHLQUIST/GETTY IMAGES © Touring the heiau is perhaps the best opportunity in all of Hawaii to really understand what traditional Hawaiian culture was like prior to contact with the West. Amazingly, very few people visit. The History Piʻilanihale
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sand beach in Waiʻanapanapa State Park. 8Need to Know Visit the Division of State Parks website for more trail details (http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/hiking/maui/ke-ala-loa-o-mauipiilani-trail/). 5Take a Break Re-energize with a juicy burger and a lush green view at the Hana Burger
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but a cake from a bakery is great too. rBeaches The further south you travel, the better the beaches. Big BeachBeach (Oneloa Beach; http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/maui; Makena Rd; h6am-6pm; p) The crowning glory of Makena State Park, this untouched beach is arguably the finest on
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808-833-3000; www.polyad.com; tours adult from $114, child 3-11yr from $69) Part of Gray Line Hawaii, it’s a big player among Hawaiian tour companies; offers tours to Haleakalā National Park, Central Maui and ʻIao Valley State Monument, and the Road to Hana. Also runs short trips from
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Maui to Pearl Harbor in O‘ahu (from adult/child $378/357). Roberts Hawaii (%800-831-5541; www.robertshawaii.com; tours adult/child 4-11yr
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$108/79) In operation for more than 70 years, Roberts Hawaii runs three tours: Hana, ʻIao Valley and
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Lahaina, and Haleakalā National Park. 5Eating Kula Lodge RestaurantHawaiian$$$ MAP (%808-878-1535; www.kulalodge.com; 15200 Haleakalā Hwy; breakfast $12-27, lunch $18-42, dinner $26-42; h7am-9pm) Assisted by its staggering view, perhaps the best of any Maui restaurant,
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was ‘discovered’ by controversial figure Lorrin Thurston, the newspaper baron (and patron of famed volcanologist Dr Jaggar) who was instrumental in overthrowing the Kingdom of Hawaii. Entrance to the Thurston Lava Tubes | BILDAGENTUR ZOONAR GMBH/SHUTTERSTOCK © Viewing the Lava Up Close Lucky travelers may be able to view liquid rock making
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self-reliance and sustainability paint the way forward. History From Polynesian wayfarers and Hawaiian royalty to missionaries, sugar barons and the US military, this is Hawaii’s story. People & Culture Forget the myths and stereotypes about island life, far from ‘da’ mainland at this multicultural Pacific crossroads. Hawaiian Arts & Crafts
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The government and private industry are pursuing every renewable and clean energy option available – wind farms on Maui, for example. Diversifying the Economy After losing sugar and pineapple plantations to cheap imports from the developing world, Hawaii’s economy was reliant on tourism. When a recession tanked the national economy in 2008
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sugar-dependent economy. Thousands of Japanese Americans, many from Hawaii, eventually fought for the United States. Many were decorated for their bravery. The War Department stationed the 4th Marine Division on Maui, where thousands of marines conducted training exercises for combat in the Pacific theater. Statehood Throughout the 20th century numerous
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Hawaiian statehood bills were introduced in Congress, only to be shot down. One reason for this lack of support was racial prejudice against Hawaii’s multiethnic population.
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people per week to the islands, tourism exploded, creating a hotel-building boom previously unmatched in the US. Hawaiian Renaissance & Sovereignty By the 1970s, Hawaii’s rapid growth meant new residents (mostly mainland transplants) and tourists were crowding island beaches and roads. Runaway construction was rapidly transforming resorts almost beyond
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. 2008 Born and raised in Honolulu on Oʻahu, Barack Obama is elected US President. He wins more than 70% of the vote in Hawaii. 2013 Hawaii joins a growing number of US states to legalize same-sex marriage. People & Culture Whatever your postcard tropical idyll might be – a paradise of
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oddball younger sibling), yet it’s protective of its separateness. This has both advantages and disadvantages. On the upside, there’s a genuine appreciation for Hawaii’s uniqueness. On the downside, it reinforces an insider-outsider mentality that in its darkest moments manifests as exclusivity or, worse, blatant discrimination. Island
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York City or Los Angeles, Hawaii’s capital can still be surprisingly cosmopolitan, technologically savvy and fashion-conscious. Rightly or wrongly, Honoluluans see themselves at the center of everything; they have sports stadiums, the state’s premier university and actual (if relatively tame) nightlife. Kauaʻi, Maui, Hawaiʻi (the Big
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Island), Lanaʻi and especially Molokaʻi are considered ʻcountry.’ That said, in a landscape as compressed as Hawaii, ʻcountry’ is a relative term. Rural areas tend not to be too far from
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nowadays to meet locals who can rattle off four or five different ethnicities in their ancestry – Hawaiian, Chinese, Portuguese, Filipino and Caucasian, for example. Hawaii is as ethnically diverse as California, Texas or Florida – and more racially intermixed – but it’s noticeably missing the significant African American and Latino populations
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that help define those other states and most multiculturalism on the mainland. Politically, the majority of Hawaii residents are middle-of-the-road Democrats who vote along party, racial/ethnic, seniority and local/nonlocal lines. As more mainland transplants arrive, conservative
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hand gestures, facial expressions and synchronized movements were exact. In a culture without written language, chants were important, giving meaning to the movements and preserving Hawaii’s oral history, anything from creation stories about gods to royal genealogies. Songs often contained kaona (hidden meanings), which could be spiritual, but also
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court appearance. oTop Island Adventures Surfing Waikiki, O‘ahu. Kayaking Na Pali Coast, Kauaʻi. Hiking Haleakalā’s summit, Maui. Diving Cathedrals, Lanaʻi. EPICSTOCKMEDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Diving Ocean temperatures in Hawaii are perfect for scuba diving, averaging 71°F to 83°F (22°C to 28°C) at the surface year
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The best winds usually blow in summer, but it varies depending on where you are on each island. Maui dominates the attention of kitesurfers, aspiring or otherwise. Snorkeling If you can swim, Hawaii’s magnificent coral reefs are yours. In addition to more than 500 species of often neon-colored tropical fish
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Center, also on the Big Island, or at Honolulu’s Bishop Museum on Oʻahu. Astronomical observatories at Science City (Haleakalā Observatories; www.ifa.hawaii.edu) on Maui’s Haleakalā volcano study the sun, not the stars, and they aren’t open to the public. For do-it-yourself astronomy outings, Haleakalā
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powered binoculars from island dive shops before you head up. Resort hotels, especially on Maui and the Big Island, occasionally offer stargazing programs for guests that use high-quality telescopes. Cuisine We love the cuisine in Hawaii because of its tasty exuberance and no-worries embrace of foreign flavors. The plate
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ingredient and flavor profile to sister cuisines located across the ocean. oBest Restaurants Alan Wong’s Monkeypod Kitchen Roy’s Waikiki Takenoko Sushi Umekes Hawaii Regional Cuisine Hawaii was considered a culinary backwater until the early 1990s, when a handful of island chefs – including Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi, Sam Choy and
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more information on recommended places to stay, beaches, events and more, check out the following resources: Out Traveler (www.outtraveler.com/hawaii) LGBTQ-oriented Hawaii travel articles free online. Pride Guide Hawaii (www.gogayhawaii.com) Free island visitor guides for gay-friendly activities, accommodations, dining, nightlife, shopping, festivals, weddings and more. Hawai
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http://hawaiilgbtlegacyfoundation.com) News, resources and a community calendar of LGBTQ events, mostly on Oʻahu. Gay Hawaii (http://gayhawaii.com) Short listings of LGBTQ-friendly businesses, beaches and community resources on Oʻahu, Maui, Kauaʻi and Hawaiʻi, the Big Island. Purple Roofs (www.purpleroofs.com) Online directory of gay
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www.accessalohatravel.com), an O‘ahu-based travel agency, can help book wheelchair-accessible accommodations, rental vans, cruises and tours. Transport ( Getting There & Away Air Hawaii is a competitive market for US domestic and international airfares, which vary tremendously by season, day of the week and demand. Competition is highest among
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Blvd; W) on Oʻahu. Flights to Lanaʻi and Molokaʻi usually originate from Honolulu or Maui. The main Neighbor Island airports include the following: Hilo International Airport (ITO; %808-961-9300; www.hawaii.gov/ito; 2450 Kekuanaoa St), East Hawaiʻi (Big Island). Kahului International Airport (OGG; %808-872
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-3830; http://hawaii.gov/ogg; 1 Kahului Airport Rd), Maui. Kona International Airport (KOA; %808-327-9520; http://hawaii.gov/koa; 73-200 Kupipi St), at Keahole West Hawaiʻi (Big Island). Lanaʻi Airport (LNY; %808
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-565-7942; http://hawaii.gov/lny; off Hwy 440), Lanaʻi. Lihuʻe Airport (LIH; %808-274-3800; http://hawaii.gov/lih;
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), Molokaʻi. Among the many domestic and international airlines serving the islands, the only Hawaii-based carrier is Hawaiian Airlines (%800-367-5320; www.hawaiianairlines.com). Sea Most cruises to Hawaii include stopovers in Honolulu and on Maui, Kauaʻi and Hawaiʻi, the Big Island. Cruises typically last two weeks, with
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while traveling around individual islands usually requires renting a car. Air Interisland flights are short, frequent and surprisingly expensive. Hawaii’s airports handling most interisland air traffic are Honolulu (Oʻahu), Kahului (Maui), Kona and Hilo on Hawaiʻi (Big Island) and Lihuʻe (Kauaʻi). Smaller regional airports served mainly
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(Big Island). Boat Limited ferry services connect Maui with Lanaʻi. Bus Public buses run on the larger islands, but you’ll probably find it time-consuming and difficult to get around by bus, except on Oʻahu. Car Most visitors to Hawaii rent their own vehicles, particularly on the Neighbor
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hana – ‘stop work’; happy hour Pele – goddess of fire and volcanoes; her home is in Kilauea Caldera pidgin – distinct local language and dialect, originating from Hawaii’s multiethnic plantation immigrants piko – navel, umbilical cord pohaku – rock pono – righteous, respectful and proper pukiawe – native plant with red and white berries and
Fodor's Hawaii 2012
by Fodor's Travel Publications · 15 Nov 2011
Hawai‘i in Pictures Hawai‘i Maps Experience Hawai‘i O‘ahu Maui The Big Island Kaua‘i Moloka‘i Lāna‘i Travel Smart Hawai‘i Vocabulary About Our Writers Copyright and Credits Experience Hawai‘i Hawaii O‘ahu Downtown Honolulu and Chinatown Waikiki West Waikiki East Greater Honolulu Southeast Oahu Windward Oahu
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The North Shore, Central, and West Oahu O‘ahu Beaches Maui West Maui Lahaina The South Shore and Central Maui Kahului-Wailuku Upcountry Maui and the North Shore East Maui Maui Beaches: West, South and
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Lāna‘i (Lāna‘i), and Wai‘anae (O‘ahu) are considered extinct volcanoes, in the erosional stage of development; Ko‘olau (O‘ahu) and West Maui (Maui) volcanoes are extinct volcanoes in the rejuvenation stage—after lying dormant for hundreds of thousands of years, they began erupting again, but only once every
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a gift shop, and educational meeting rooms. | 250 S. Hotel St., 2nd fl., Downtown Honolulu | 96813 | 808/586–0900 museum, 808/536–5900 restaurant | www.hawaii.gov/sfca | Free | Tues.–Sat. 10–4. Hawai‘i State Capitol. The capitol’s architecture is richly symbolic: the columns resemble palm trees, the legislative
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new, state-of-the-art 3-D big-screen auditorium. For distinctive Hawaiian gift stores, visit Nohea Gallery, Martin & MacArthur, and Native Books/Na Mea Hawaii, carrying quality work from Hawai‘i artists, including mu‘umu‘u, koa wood products, and unparalleled Ni‘ihau shell necklaces. Island Soap and Candle Works
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these stores are easy to carry home and make wonderful gifts. | Ward Warehouse, 1050 Ala Moana Blvd., Ala Moana | 96814 | 808/596–0074. Gifts Blue Hawaii Lifestyle. The Ala Moana store carries a large selection of locally made products, including soaps, honey, tea, salt, chocolates, art, and CDs. Every item, in
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supply of original, hand-picked, Hawaiian-style clothing for youngsters. | 66-051 Kamehameha Hwy. | Hale‘iwa | 96712 | 808/637–4544 | www.thegrowingkeiki.com. Island X Hawaii. This is a surprising, yet charming store in a section of the old Waialua Sugar Mill. The store carries gifts, clothes, and local food items
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have some Japanese styling,” “wonderful garden,” “short walk to the beach.” | 250 Beach Walk, Waikīkī | 96815 | 808/923–3181 or 800/426–0494 | www.breakers-hawaii.com | 64 units | In-room: a/c, kitchen. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, pool, Internet terminal, parking (paid) | AE, DC, MC, V. Castle Waikīkī Shore. $$$$ |
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| In-room: a/c, safe, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: 4 restaurants, room service, bar, pool | AE, D, MC, V. The Equus. $–$$ | HOTEL | Formerly the Hawaii Polo Inn, this small hotel has been completely renovated with a Hawaiian country theme that pays tribute to Hawai‘i’s polo-playing history. It
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wanna get away,” “don’t expect luxury,” “2 minute walk from great beaches.” | 59-788 Kamehameha Hwy. | Hale‘iwa | 96712 | 808/638–7838 | www.backpackers-hawaii.com | 25 rooms | In-room: no a/c, no phone (some), kitchen (some), no TV (some). In-hotel: laundry facilities | MC, V. Fodor’s Choice
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facilities and little shade, and tread carefully over this culturally important landscape. | Just before end of Mākena Alanui Rd., follow marked trails through trees | 96732 | hawaii.gov/dlnr. Coastal Nature Trail. A 1.5-mile-long paved beach walk allows you to stroll among Wailea’s prettiest properties, restaurants, and rocky
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clubs, pro shop, lessons, restaurant, bar. The Plantation Course | 2000 Plantation Club Dr. | Kapalua | 96761 | 808/669–8044 or 877/527–2582 | www.kapalua.com/hawaii-golf | 18 holes. 7411 yds. Par 73. Slope 135. Greens Fee: $268 | Facilities: Driving range, putting green, golf carts, pull carts, rental clubs, pro shop
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the center’s staff up the summit in your own car after watching an informational video at the Visitor Center. | 808/961–2180 | www.ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis. The Hāmākua Coast The Hāmākua Coast is about 25 mi east of Waimea. The spectacular waterfalls, mysterious jungles, emerald fields, and stunning
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| www.hawaiistateparks.org). Best Spots Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park (Hwy. 11 | Near Volcano Village, 30 mi south of Hilo | 96785 | 808/985–6000 | www.hawaii.volcanoes.national-park.com) is perhaps the Big Island’s premier area for hikers. The 150 mi of trails provide close-up views of fern
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offers tours into lava tubes and through normally inaccessible areas of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. | 96738 | 808/331–8505 or 800/464–1993 | www.hawaii-forest.com. Hawaiian Walkways. This company conducts several tours with knowledgeable guides—a Kona Cloud Forest botanical walk, a hike on Saddle Road between Mauna
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as well as beautiful costumes. The meal offers more variety than most, with options representing all the early Hawaiian settlers, including those from New Zealand, Hawaii, Tahiti, and Samoa. | 1 N. Kaniku Dr. | Kohala Coast | 96743 | 808/885–2000 | www.fairmont.com/orchid | $103 | Sat. at 6. Hilton Waikoloa Village.
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best chefs and farms have to offer, from grass-fed beef and bison to organic produce, cheese, chocolates, and coffee. | 808/981–5199 | www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/taste | Sept. or Oct. Theater Aloha Theatre. Local talent stages musicals and Broadway plays at this charming old plantation center near Kailua-Kona. | 79
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on camping at county parks, including Spencer Beach Park, contact the Department of Parks and Recreation (25 Aupuni St. | Hilo | 96720 | 808/961–8311 | www.hawaii-county.com). Where Should I Stay? Kailua-Kona Local Vibe: Kailua-Kona is a bustling little village. Ali‘i Drive is crammed with hotels and
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. TripAdvisor: “pool is tiny,” “sunsets cannot be beat,” “view was really nice.” | 76-6212 Ali‘i Dr. | Kailua-Kona | 96740 | 808/329–6438 | www.sunquest-hawaii.com | 15 units | In-room: a/c (some), kitchen. In-hotel: pool, beachfront, laundry facilities | D, MC, V. Kona Pacific. ¢–$ | RENTAL | Once a hotel,
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kids. TripAdvisor: “fabulous view,” “beautifully furnished,” “room was very comfortable.” | 131 Ka‘iulani St. | Hilo | 96720 | 808/934–8002 or 800/627–8447 | www.hilo-hawaii.com | 3 rooms, 2 cottage rooms | In-room: no a/c, no phone, refrigerator, no TV, Wi-Fi | AE, MC, V. Puna Bed & Breakfast Mountain
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the following morning. TripAdvisor: “many amenities,” “very comfortable stay,” “clean and spacious.” | Wright Rd. | Volcano | 96785 | 808/967–7786 or 800/937–7786 | www.volcano-hawaii.com | 14 rooms, 3 suites, 5 houses | In-room: no a/c, no phone (some). In-hotel: Wi-Fi hotspot | D, DC, MC, V. Hale
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Hwy. | Līhu‘e | 96766 | 3441 Kuiloko Rd., Port Allen Airport | Hanapēpē | 96716 Princeville Airport | Princeville | 96722 | 808/245–8881 or 888/245–4354 | www.helicopters-hawaii.com. ATV Tours Although all the beaches on the island are public, much of the interior land—once sugar and pineapple plantations—is privately owned
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Frankel teaches yoga, a discipline she started as a young child living in south Florida. That practice led her to start the Ayurveda Center of Hawaii, which operates out of the spa and offers an ancient Indian cleansing and rejuvenation program known as Pancha Karma. Think multiday wellness retreat. | Hanalei
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visiting musicians, dramatic productions, and special events such as the International Film Festival. | 3-1901 Kaumuali‘i Hwy. | Līhu‘e | 96766 | 808/245–8270 | kauai.hawaii.edu/pac. Dinner Show South Pacific Dinner Show. It seems a fitting tribute to see the play that put Kaua‘i on the map. Rodgers
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–6284 | www.visitmaui.com). Moloka‘i Visitors Association (12 Kamo’i St., Suite 200 | Kaunakakai | 96748 | 808/553–3876 or 800/800–6367 | www.molokai-hawaii.com). Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents West Moloka‘i | Central Moloka‘i | East
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operates a free shuttle system between the terminals from 6 am to 10 pm every day. Information Honolulu International Airport (HNL) (808/836–6413 | www.hawaii.gov/dot/airports). Maui Airports Maui has two major airports. Kahului Airport handles major airlines and interisland flights; it’s the only airport on
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in East Maui also has an airstrip, served by Pacific Wings and charter flights from Kahului and Kapalua. Flying here from one of the other airports is a great option if you want to avoid the long and winding drive to Hāna. Information Kahului Airport (OGG) (808/872–3893 | hawaii.gov/ogg
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). Kapalua–West Maui Airport (JHM) (808/669–0623 | hawaii.gov/jhm). Hāna Airport (HNM) (808/248–8208 | hawaii.gov/hnm). Big Island Airports Those flying to the Big Island of Hawai‘i regularly land at
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from the mainland to these Islands must first stop in Maui or O‘ahu and change to an interisland flight. Information Lāna‘i: Lāna‘i Airport (LNY) (808/565–7942 | hawaii.gov/lny). Moloka‘i: Ho‘olehua Airport (MKK) (808/567–6361 | hawaii.gov/mkk). Flights US Airways, American, and United fly into
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O‘ahu, Maui, Kaua‘i, and the Big Island. Alaska flies into O‘ahu
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, Maui, Kaua‘i, and the Big Island. Delta serves O‘ahu (Honolulu), Maui, and the Big Island. Continental flies into Honolulu
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11-night Paradise Adventure from Mountains to Sea tour, whose participants will do everything from river kayaking and hiking to surfing; the nine-night Snorkeling Hawaii’s Spectacular Marine Environments tour, on which travelers can immerse themselves in Hawai‘i’s fascinating marine life; and the Oahu and Big Island Hawaiian
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10 to 14 accompanied by an adult. Contact Road Scholar (800/454–5768 | www.roadscholar.org). Hiking Hawaii Three Island Hiker is a seven-night hiking tour to Kaua‘i, the Big Island, and Maui offered by The World Outdoors. Included in the price of about $3,700 per person are accommodations
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www.visit-oahu.com (O‘ahu Visitors Bureau); www.kauaidiscovery.com (Kaua‘i Visitors Bureau); www.visitlanai.net (Lāna‘i Visitors Bureau); and www.molokai-hawaii.com (Moloka‘i Visitors Association). Visit www.honoluluweekly.com for a weekly guide to the arts, entertainment, and dining in Honolulu; www.honolulu.gov, from
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org, has an online directory of more than 100 member companies offering tours and activities. The Hawai‘i Department of Land and Natural Resources, www.hawaii.gov/dlnr, has information on hiking, fishing and camping permits and licenses; on-line brochures on hiking safety and mountain and ocean preservation; as well
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of travel, retail, and restaurant clients. She is also a food reviewer for Honolulu’s NonstopHonolulu.com and is a regular contributor to the InsideOut Hawaii magazine. For this edition she updated the Shopping, Spas, Nightlife and Entertainment, and Dining sections of the O‘ahu chapter. Nathan Eagle lives, works,
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‘i chapter. Eliza Escaño-Vasquez was raised in Manila, Philippines, lived in California, and fell deeply in aloha with Maui in 2005. She is a contributing writer for the Maui Concierge and Modern Luxury Hawaii. For this edition, she updated the Water Sports and Tours, Shops and Spas, and Entertainment and Nightlife sections
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of the Maui chapter. Eliza currently resides on Maui with her family. Bonnie Friedman, a native New Yorker, has made her home
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on Maui for almost 30 years. A well-published freelance
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from arts and entertainment to island living. Her articles have also been published in the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Hawaiian Airlines’ Hana Hou! magazine, and the Hawaii Tribune-Herald. Katie updated the Big Island chapter. Copyright and Credits Fodor’s Hawai‘i 2012 Editors: Jess Moss, Linda Cabasin, Erica Duecy, Carolyn Galgano
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YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH FODORS.COM Research your destination. Talk to like-minded travelers. Get great deals. Sign up for Fodor’s weekly newsletter. Photo Credits Hawaii Cover, Wasmac/eStock Photo Album 1, jeannehatch/istockphoto Album 2, Kelli Glaser, Fodors.com member Album 3, Lanai Image Library Album 4, Rafael Ramirez Lee
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Gil/Shutterstock.com Best Beaches, Medioimages/Photodisc/Thinkstock Best Outdoor Adventures, Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) / Ron Dahlquist Top Scenic Spots, Kaua’i Visitors Bureau Ultimate Hawaiian Indulgences, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, Kaíanapali Weddings And Honeymoons, Patrick Roherty/iStockphoto Cruising The Hawaiian Islands, Michael Brake/iStockphoto Oahu, Oahu Visitors Bureau Welcome To
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Sports And Tours, Hiroyuki Saita/shutterstock.com Golf, Hiking, And Outdoor Activities, Big Island Visitors Bureau Shopping, catscandotcom/istockphoto Spas, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, Kaíanapali Entertainment And Nightlife, Hawaii Convention & Visitors Bureau Where To Eat, iStockphoto Where To Stay, Four Seasons Hualalai/Rothenborg, Kyle Kauai, Kaua’i Visitors Bureau Welcome To
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, Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts Hawaiian Vocabulary, Skip ODonnell/iStockphoto Travel Smart, James Michael Kruger/istockphoto Getting Here And Around, Kauai Visitors Bureau Essentials, Four Seasons Maui at Wailea/ Vitale, Peter Hawaii Maps, Marcin Moryc/Hemera/Thinkstock
1,000 Places to See in the United States and Canada Before You Die, Updated Ed.
by Patricia Schultz · 13 May 2007 · 2,323pp · 550,739 words
DAKOTA • OKLAHOMA • SOUTH DAKOTA • WYOMING FOUR CORNERS AND THE SOUTHWEST ARIZONA • COLORADO • NEVADA • NEW MEXICO • TEXAS • UTAH WEST COAST CALIFORNIA • OREGON • WASHINGTON ALASKA AND HAWAII ALASKA • HAWAII CANADA EASTERN CANADA NEW BRUNSWICK • NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR • NOVA SCOTIA • NUNAVUT • ONTARIO • PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND • QUEBEC WESTERN CANADA ALBERTA • BRITISH COLUMBIA • MANITOBA • NORTHWEST TERRITORIES •
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BEST TIMES: mid-June–late Sept for the Château Ste. Michelle’s concert series; mid-Sept for the Festival of the Grape. ALASKA AND HAWAII ALASKA • HAWAII The Last Great Race on Earth THE IDITAROD Anchorage, Alaska Starting from Anchorage each March and ending 8 to 15 days later in Nome, the
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the hula kahiko (ancient) competition; Sat for the hula ’auana (modern) competition. A Place of Refuge PU’UHONUA O HONAUNAU Honaunau, Big Island, Hawaii In ancient Hawaii, death was the penalty for breaking a kapu (law), but offenders who somehow eluded the chief’s warriors could find safety at a pu
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-1625; www.waimeaplantation.com. Cost: from $215. BEST TIMES: May–Oct for weather. From Pineapples to Posh Hotels THE LANA’I COAST Lana’i, Hawaii Hawaii’s most secluded island, tiny unhyped Lana’i was once the state’s largest pineapple plantation, with field after field of red-dirt Dole pineapple
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’ele’s reflecting pond is the centerpiece of the resort’s manicured grounds. Tee Time at the Oasis THE GOLF RESORTS OF WAILEA AND MAKENA Maui, Hawaii Just three decades ago, Wailea was a dusty, barren area covered by an impenetrable scrub of thorny kiawe. Today, after a multimillion-dollar deal
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Festival (www.mauifilm festival.com); Nov–Apr for whale-watching. House of the Sun HALEAKALA Maui, Hawaii Who’s to argue with the local saying Maui no ka oi —“Maui is the best.” The “Valley Isle” is named after the Polynesian demigod, who, after having plucked all the Hawaiian islands up out of
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6698 or 808-572-6698; www.maui-bed-and-breakfast.com. Cost: from $130. BEST TIMES: either sunrise (which can be crowded) or sunset (when you can practically have the place to yourself); May–Sept for warmest weather. Hawaii’s Most Famous Byway HANA HIGHWAY Maui, Hawaii Besides the Crater Road to Haleakala’
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s summit (see above), Maui’s other famous road show, and one of the Pacific’s most scenic, is the narrow, corkscrew
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stay overnight in Hana. Avoid the 2nd Sat in Sept, when hundreds of runners take to the Hana Highway in the Hana Relays. Hawaii of Yesteryear HANA VILLAGE Maui, Hawaii In a timeless setting of natural beauty, surrounded by dense rain forest, with tumbling waterfalls, clear azure pools, and white-, red- and
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black-sand beaches within minutes of each other, the tiny village of Hana is a throwback to the Hawaii of yesteryear. At the end of
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-4400; www.nps.gov/hale. BEST TIMES: end of Mar or early Apr for the East Maui Taro Festival (www.tarofestival.org). They’re Ba-ack! HUMPBACK WHALE NATIONAL MARINE SANCTUARY Maui, Hawaii Humpback whales are Hawaii’s largest visitors, and when they come, they come in force. Nearly two-thirds of the
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and snorkel tours from Ma’alaea and Lahaina harbors. HAWAII HUMPBACK WHALE EDUCATION CENTER: Kihei. Tel 808-879-2818; www.hawaiihumpbackwhale.noaa.gov. When: closed Sat–Sun. BEST TIMES: Nov–Mar for whale migration. Luxury Links, Fantastic Food KAPALUA RESORT Maui, Hawaii Across the island and worlds away from the small-town
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life and thick rain forest of eastern Maui is the sun-drenched, beach-blessed northwest coast. One of the area’s top destinations, the 23
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in early July for the Kapalua Food and Wine Festival (www.kapalua maui.com). History and Gustatory Pleasure in a Former Whaling Capital LAHAINA Maui, Hawaii Nestled between the West Maui Mountains and the cobalt blue waters of the Pacific, Maui’s western coast is home to the colorful 19th-century whaling village of
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Sun–Mon. BEST TIME: Halloween—also known as the “Mardi Gras of the Pacific.” Feasting and Dance: A Night of Aloha OLD LAHAINA LUAU Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii For most Hawaiians, luau are rich traditional feasts held by families and churches; for visitors, they’re often uninspired commercial clichés produced by hotels. The
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THE FEAST AT LELE: Tel 886-244-5353 or 808-667-5353; www.feastatlele.com. Cost: $105. A Diver’s Garden in the Sea MOLOKINI Maui, Hawaii Midway between Maui’s south shore and the uninhabited island of Kaho’olawe is the tiny islet of Molokini. Viewed from
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-Rate Hotels, Resorts, and Spas Alaska & Hawaii Alyeska Resort, Alaska, 915–16 Bettles Lodge, Alaska, 915 Brooks Lodge, Alaska, 921 Camp Denali, Alaska, 912 Chena Hot Springs Resort, Alaska, 911 Denali West Lodge, Alaska, 912 Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, Hawaii, 951 Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, Hawaii, 934 Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele
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Bay, Hawaii, 948–49, 950 Four Seasons Resort Maui, Hawaii, 951 Glacier Bay Lodge, Alaska, 916 Grand Hyatt Kauai, Hawaii, 947 Grand Wailea Resort, Hawaii, 951 Gustavus Inn, Alaska, 916 Halekulani Hotel, Hawaii, 967 Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel, Hawaii, 935 Hotel Hana-Maui, Hawaii, 954
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Kachemak Bay Wilderness Lodge, Alaska, 919 Kapalua Resort, Hawaii, 955–56 Kauai
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Hotel, Hawaii, 944 King Kamehameha Kona
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Beach Hotel, Hawaii, 932 Kona Village Resort, Hawaii, 933–34 Lodge at
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Ko’ele, Hawaii, 949–50 Loonsong Mountain Lake Chalet,
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Alaska, 919 Luau at Kona Village Resort, Hawaii, 933–34
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Makena Beach & Golf Resort, Hawaii,
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Tex., 780 World Center for Birds of Prey, Idaho, 602 GARDENS AND BOTANICAL EVENTS Alaska & Hawaii Allerton Garden, Hawaii, 947 Kahanu Garden, Hawaii, 954 Ke’anae Arboretum, Hawaii, 953 Liliuokalani Gardens, Hawaii, 929 Limahuli Garden, Hawaii, 944, 946 McBryde Garden, Hawaii, 946 Canada Annapolis Royal Gardens, N.S., 985 Butchart Gardens, B.C., 1059–60 Cretaceous
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Alaska & Hawaii Barking Sands Beach, Hawaii, 946 Big Beach, Hawaii, 951 Big Island, Hawaii, 927–43 Coconut Island, Hawaii, 930 Ehukai Beach Park, Hawaii, 969 Fleming Beach Park, Hawaii, 955 Hanakapi’ai Beach, Hawaii, 946 Hanalei Beach, Hawaii, 943–44 Hanauma Bay, Hawaii, 962–63 Ho’okipa Beach Park, Hawaii, 953 Kahalu’u Beach Park, Hawaii, 936 Kalalau Beach, Hawaii, 945–46
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Kapalua Beach, Hawaii, 955 Kauai, Hawaii, 943–
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975–76 accommodations, overnight (by region) Alaska & Hawaii Alyeska Resort, Alaska, 915–16 Bettles Lodge, Alaska, 915 Brooks Lodge, Alaska, 921 Camp Denali, Alaska, 912 Chena Hot Springs Resort, Alaska, 911 Denali West Lodge, Alaska, 912 Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, Hawaii, 951 Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, Hawaii, 934 Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele
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Bay, Hawaii, 948–49, 950 Four Seasons Resort Maui, Hawaii, 951 Glacier Bay Lodge, Alaska, 916 Grand Hyatt Kauai, Hawaii, 947 Grand Wailea Resort, Hawaii, 951 Gustavus Inn, Alaska, 916 Halekulani Hotel, Hawaii, 967 Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel, Hawaii, 935 Hotel Hana-Maui, Hawaii, 954
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Kachemak Bay Wilderness Lodge, Alaska, 919 Kapalua Resort, Hawaii, 955–56 Kauai
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Hotel, Hawaii, 944 King Kamehameha Kona
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Beach Hotel, Hawaii, 932 Kona Village Resort, Hawaii, 933–34 Lodge at
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Ko’ele, Hawaii, 949–50 Loonsong Mountain Lake Chalet,
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Alaska, 919 Luau at Kona Village Resort, Hawaii, 933–34
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Makena Beach and Golf Resort, Hawaii
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Chicago, Ill., 492 Blue Dory Inn, R.I., 82 Bluefin Bay Resort, Minn., 547 BLUEGRASS COUNTRY, Ky., 409–10 Bluegrass Festival, Colo., 723 Blue Hawaii Helicopters, Hawaii, 945 Blue Heron Drive, P.E.I., 1011 Blue Heron Mining Community, Ky., 405 BLUE HILL, Maine, 21–22 Blue Hill at Stone Barns,
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Chateau Whistler, B.C., 1063 Fairmont Copley Plaza, Mass., 39 FAIRMONT EMPRESS, B.C., 1060–61 Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, Alta., 1034 Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, Hawaii, 951 Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, Que., 1022 Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu, Que., 1012 Fairmont Mont Treblant, Que., 1015 Fairmont Palliser, Alta., 1028 Fairmont Scottsdale Princess
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1005–6, 1008 Four Seasons Resort, Ariz., 692 Four Seasons Resort, B.C., 1062 Four Seasons Resort at Manele Bay, Hawaii, 948–49, 950 Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, Hawaii, 934 Four Seasons Resort Maui, Hawaii, 951 Four Seasons Restaurant, N.Y., 187, 189 FOXWOODS, Conn., 10–11 Franconia, Mass., 69 Franconia, N.H.,
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Bike Fest-Evil, Utah, 797 Hammondsport, N.Y., 149 HAMPTONS, N.Y., 160–62 HANA HIGHWAY, Hawaii, 952–53 Hanakapi’ai Beach, Hawaii, 946 Hanalei, Hawaii, 944 HANALEI BEACH, Hawaii, 943–44 HANAUMA BAY, Hawaii, 962–63 HANA VILLAGE, Hawaii, 953–54 Hancock, Mass., 53–54 Hancock, Mich., 535 HANCOCK SHAKER VILLAGE, Mass., 53–54
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702 HASTINGS HOUSE COUNTRY ESTATE, B.C., 1038, 1039–40 Hatteras Island, N.C., 366 Hawaii, 927–70 Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale Sanctuary Education Center, Hawaii, 955 Hawaiian Language College, Hawaii, 930 Hawaii Maritime Center, Hawaii, 963–64 HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK, Hawaii, 927–28 Hawthorne Hotel, Mass., 66 Hawthorne Inn, Mass., 58 Hay-Adams Hotel, D
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CORONADO, Calif., 843–44 Hotel de Paris, Colo., 715 Hotel du Pont, Del., 115 Hotel Eldorado, B.C., 1043 Hotel Elliott, Oreg., 865 Hotel Hana-Maui, Hawaii, 954 Hotel Hershey, Pa., 210–11 Hotel Jerome, Colo., 703 Hotel Le St-James, Que., 1018 Hotel Manisses, R.I., 82 Hotel Monteleone, La.,
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Conn., 14 Matthew, N.L., 981 Mattress Factory, Pa., 228 Maui, Hawaii, 950–59 Mauna Kea golf course, Hawaii, 935 MAUNA KEA RESORT, Hawaii, 935 MAUNA KEA SUMMIT, Hawaii, 928, 935, 937–38 Mauna Lani Bay Resort, Hawaii, 934 Mauna Lani Resort, Hawaii, 939 Mauna Loa volcano, Hawaii, 936 Maverick’s beach, Calif., 857 Max Downtown, Conn., 14
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10–11 MOHONK, LAKE, N.Y., 165–66 MOHONK MOUNTAIN HOUSE, N.Y., 151, 165–66 Mokuaikaua Church, Hawaii, 932 Mokupapapa Discovery Center, Hawaii, 929 Molokai, Hawaii, 959–60 Molokai Mule Ride, Hawaii, 960 MOLOKINI, Hawaii, 958–59 MOMA (MUSEUM OF MODERN ART), N.Y., 182–83 Monadnock Building, Ill., 486 MONADNOCK REGION, N.
Discover Hawaii the Big Island
by Lonely Planet
release epitomizes the power of Hawaiian chant. » Four Hands Sweet & Hot (1999) Master musicians Cyril Pahinui (slack key guitar) and Bob Brozman (slide guitar) showcase Hawaii’s two iconic instruments. Websites » Mountain Apple Company on YouTube (www.youtube.com/user/mountainapplecompany) Watch Israel Kamakawiwoʻole to understand what it means to
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the month with craft fairs, food booths, live music and other cultural doings. Waimea Ukulele & Slack Key Guitar Institute Concert Aspiring musicians can study with Hawaii’s foremost musicians at these workshops (Click here); concerts and kanikapila (jam sessions) open to the public. Held in early February. March Kona Brewers Festival
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This beer fest (Click here) held the second Saturday of the month just keeps getting bigger. Sip handcrafted brews from Hawaii, California, and elsewhere accompanied by good food and live music. April Merrie Monarch Festival Hilo’s premier shindig is this week-long festival ( Click
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, a 1166lb marlin, and the 1986 record catch weighing in at 1065lb. Read all about the latest, greatest catches in the official state record keeper Hawaii Fishing News (www.hawaiifishingnews.com). Bodyboarding & Surfing White Sands Beach Park is a favorite spot for bodyboarding, while board surfers like Banyans’ Kahalu‘u
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you win? Who cares? It’s all about the challenge (and the bragging rights). HAWAIIAN INTERNATIONAL BILLFISH TOURNAMENT Competition ( 836-3422; www.hibtfishing.com) Hawaii’s most prestigious sportfishing competition, with five days of all-day fishing followed by weigh-ins and other festivities at Kailua Pier. The tourney starts
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condos and vacation rentals – the best bets for families – check a variety of sources, including Vacation Rental by Owner (www.vrbo.com) and Alternative Hawaii (www.alternative-hawaii.com) . B&Bs, Inns & Hostels Parking is no problem at the following. Most places have a three-night minimum stay. PLUMERIA HOUSE Inn $$ (
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7093 Everyone should visit Holualoa, a diminutive coffee-farming village 1400ft above Kailua-Kona. The retro buildings, tight-knit community and slow pace preserve old Hawaii alongside the modern shops and art galleries. At this elevation, the climate is cooler and wetter, while coastal views are magnificent. Most businesses are
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of environmental initiatives. Tours include paddles to secluded Pawai Bay, sunset trips and overnight camping. Learning to surf is another option with these good fellows. HAWAII PACK & PADDLE Kayaking ( 328-8911; www.hawaiipackandpaddle.com; tours adult/child 3-12 $120/75) Five-hour tour to Kealakekua Bay includes hiking, wildlife
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( 323-2686; www.kaawaloaplantation.com; 82-5990 Upper Napoʻopoʻo Rd; r incl breakfast $125-145, cottage $150, ste $175; ) Some places embody Hawaii’s beauty effortlessly – like this guesthouse with wraparound lanai and unparalleled coastal views. Fine linens and exquisitely decorated rooms with ocean vistas amid organic orchards
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jaboticaba. Grab a smoothie and kick back in the cafe with beautiful views. Look for the pineapple flags lining the road. Fruit stand PHOTOGRAPHER: HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY (HTA)/TOR JOHNSON Puʻuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park Visiting this unique national park fronting Honaunau Bay is a memorable experience. You
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15) Mauna Lani Sea Adventures(see 16) Mauna Lani Spa(see 16) 11Ocean SportsA5 Spa Without Walls(see 12) Star Gaze Hawaii(see 14) Star Gaze Hawaii(see 12) Star Gaze Hawaii(see 13) Waikoloa Beach & Kings' Courses(see 18) Sleeping 12Fairmont OrchidB4 13Hapuna Beach Prince HotelC2 14Hilton Waikoloa VillageA5 15Mauna Kea
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less (11:30am/1pm/2pm $115/105/85). Carts are mandatory. Kings' Course, Waikoloa Beach Marriott PHOTOGRAPHER: ANN CECIL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © STAR GAZE HAWAII Stargazing ( 323-3481; www.stargazehawaii.com; adult $30, child 5-11 $15) Take advantage of Kohala’s consistently clear night skies and join professional astronomers
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boxed text Click here for more information). Mauna Kea PHOTOGRAPHER: KARL LEHMANN / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Sights ONIZUKA VISITOR INFORMATION STATION Landmark ( 961-2180; www.ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis; admission free; 9am-10pm) Officially the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy, this station was named after Big Island native Ellison Onizuka, one
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2Federal BuildingA1 3FW Koehnen BuildingB1 4 Mokupapapa Discovery CenterC3 Activities, Courses & Tours 5 Nautilus Dive Center D3 6 Orchidland Surfboards C2 7 Sun & Sea Hawaii C2 8 Yoga Centered B1 Sleeping 9 Hilo Bay HostelB2 Eating 10 Abundant Life Natural Foods C3 11 Bayfront Coffee, Kava & Tea CoB1 Café Pesto
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). International Festival of the Pacific Japanese Festival ( 934-0177; Japanese Chamber of Commerce, 400 Hualani St; admission free) August celebration of the Japanese in Hawaii, featuring a lantern parade and Japanese tea ceremony at Liliʻuokalani Park. Hawaiʻi County Fair Fair (Afook-Chinen Civic Auditorium, 799 Piʻilani St
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booths and taxis are located right outside the baggage-claim area. The approximate cab fare from the airport to downtown Hilo is $15. Flowers PHOTOGRAPHER: HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY (HTA)/TOR JOHNSON Bicycle Cycling is more recreation than transportation in Hilo. Da Kine Bike Shop ( 934-9861; www.bicyclehawaii.com; 18
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pockets along the Puna coast are all possible on guided tours. Although many outfits and individuals offer cheaper outings, these are the best. NATIVE GUIDE HAWAII Cultural Tours ( 982-7575; www.nativeguidehawaii.com; tour incl lunch per person $150; by appointment) Tours with Native Hawaiian and cultural practitioner Warren Costa
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disrupting the ecosystem by eating the bugs that feed native birds. The University of Hawaiʻi’s College of Tropical Agriculture & Human Resources (www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/coqui) is hot to eradicate this feisty invasive frog, holding conferences, conducting research and sharing control methods. Likewise, some homeowners are vigilant about eliminating
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the owner retains the title. Such protection measures have made this reserve one of the largest intact native forests in Hawaii. Similar easements have protected land along the Hamakua Coast and on Maui and Molokaʻi. Eating HANA HOU RESTAURANT Diner $$ (95-1148 Spur Rd; meals $10-16; 6am-7pm Sun-
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Museums 1 LYMAN MUSEUM & MISSION HOUSE ( CLICK HERE ) 2 HULIHE‘E PALACE ( CLICK HERE ) 3 PACIFC TSUNAMI MUSEUM ( CLICK HERE ) 4 ʻIMILOA ASTRONOMY CENTER OF HAWAII ( CLICK HERE ) 5 LAUPAHOEHOE TRAIN MUSEUM ( CLICK HERE ) 6 PAHOA MUSEUM ( CLICK HERE ) Tourism & the New Economy After statehood, tourism exploded, thanks to the advent
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of jet airplanes and to the commercializing of Hawaii (think tiki craze, Blue Hawaii, aloha shirts and Waikiki). Hotel construction also boomed and by 1970 the visitor industry had added $1 billion to state coffers, four times
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viable crops, but such small businesses are typically family run and can only marginally help to alleviate unemployment. Hawaiian Renaissance At the same time that Hawaii hit the international radar, Hawaiians stopped speaking their native language in public, couldn’t afford land and felt a sense of disillusionment, even shame.
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Congress. 1960 Tsunami generated off South America destroys over 100 buildings and kills 61 people in Hilo. 1961 Elvis Presley stars in Blue Hawaii, setting the mood for Hawaii’s post-statehood tourism boom. 1971 Merrie Monarch Festival, founded in 1964, holds its first competition, adding to the Hawaiian cultural renaissance.
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gardeners, surfers or golfers. While the influx of mainlanders is obvious, Oʻahu and Maui expats constitute a newer wave. ‘Hilo still feels like old Hawaii,’ they say. Indeed, Big Island real estate remains the most affordable across Hawaii, while urban problems from traffic to crime remain tolerable. In rural towns and in
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Asian-inspired masterpieces. Suddenly macadamia-crusted mahimahi, seared ahi, miso glaze and lilikoʻi (passion fruit) anything were all the rage. The movement was dubbed ‘Hawaii Regional Cuisine,’ and the pioneering chefs became celebrities. Back then this new cuisine was rather exclusive, found at destination restaurants and created by celebrity chefs
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began shifting toward the ingredients, which ideally are locally grown, organic, seasonal and handpicked. Today, individual farms are lauded like designer brands. The upshot? Hawaii Regional Cuisine is now more encompassing. The top restaurants are still its mainstay, but a cafe or lunch counter might fall under the umbrella if
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very expensive. Aficionados hope that Big Island estate tea will, like Big Island coffee, develop a niche cachet. Food Websites 1 HAWAIʻI SEAFOOD (WWW.HAWAII-SEAFOOD.ORG) 2 HAWAIʻI AGRITOURISM ASSOCIATION (WWW.HIAGTOURISM.ORG) 3 EDIBLE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS (WWW.EDIBLEHAWAIIANISLANDS.COM) 4 HAWAIIFRUIT.NET (WWW.HAWAIIFRUIT.NET) 5
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SLOW FOOD HAWAIʻI CONVIVIUM (WWW.SLOWFOODHAWAII.ORG) 6 HAWAII AGVENTURES (WWW.HAWAIIAGVENTURES.COM) Microbeer & Tropical Wine Among alcoholic beverages, beer is your average person’s drink in Hawai‘i. While national brands such as
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or the history of Polynesian tattoos. » Waimea Ukulele & Slack Key Guitar Institute (www.kahilutheatre.org) Premier workshops with notable Big Island artists. Hula In ancient Hawaii, hula was serious business. Since Hawaiians had no written language, hula and chanting served as essential communication to record historical events, myths and legends. It
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disseminated through oral traditions. In modern times, novels by mainlanders, such as James Michener’s Hawaii, have dominated. Since the 1960s, Hawaiian literature has spread its wings with local authors publishing in a variety of genres. Maui-born Milton Murayama’s All I Asking For Is My Body, a 1980 American Book
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Other notables include jazz-turned-Hawaiian songbird Amy Hanaialiʻi Gilliom and the 20-something superstar Raiatea Helm, both Grammy nominees. Since the early 1900s, Hawaii music has shifted between Westernized and Hawaiian sounds. Nowadays, the trend is toward using Hawaiian lyrics, both new compositions and traditional chanting with little accompanying
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protected waters. Kekaha Kai State Park Remote beaches for swimming, bodysurfing, bodyboarding, kayaking, snorkeling and hiking. Kapoho Tide Pools Coastal lava rock pools. Mauna Kea Hawaii’s highest peak is a world-class astronomy site, perfect for stargazing and hiking. Moʻokini Luakini Heiau Ruins of ancient sacrificial temple, spectacular view
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varieties of this staple food. Introducing GMO taro, they argue, threatens the biodiversity of the plant while compromising its genetic integrity. Since the GMO Free Hawaii initiative started, other genetically engineered plants have cropped up, most notoriously papaya. In 1998, the first genetically modified papaya was released in Puna. It proved
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16 trails, including hikeable sections of the coastal Ala Kahakai (a National Historic Trail). Big Island Moku Loa Group ( 965-5460; www.hi.sierraclub.org/Hawaii/outings.html; suggested donation for nonmembers $3) Frequent, interesting day hikes. Safe & Responsible Hiking You don’t have to worry about snakes, wild animals
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planted on the island by early-19th-century Christian missionaries in the gardens of Lahaina. Today it’s Maui’s official flower, the only exotic species of flora to be so recognized in Hawaii. » Lanaʻi A yellowish-orange vine, kaunaoa is traditionally gathered from the island’s windward shores, then
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upcountry is noticeably cooler and wetter. This elevation difference is most marked on Mauna Kea, where insulating clothing is necessary. Seasons Contrary to common belief, Hawaii does experience seasons. Winter (December to March) is rainier than summer, and it’s the season most likely to see major storms and flooding.
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US citizens and permanent residents may import the following duty free: » 1L of liquor » 200 cigarettes or 50 non-Cuban cigars » $100 worth of gifts Hawaii has stringent restrictions against importing any fresh fruits and plants. Electricity Gay & Lesbian Travelers The Big Island is very popular with gay and lesbian travelers
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tend to keep their private lives to themselves. While not outstanding, these resources may be useful to gay visitors to Hawaii: Odyssey Magazine Hawaii (www.odysseyhawaii.com) Gay Hawaii (www.gayhawaii.com) Out in Hawaii (www.outinhawaii.com) Pacific Ocean Holidays (www.gayhawaiivacations.com) Arranges packages. International Travelers » Consulates All are located in
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in November Christmas Day December 25 Safe Travel Visitors who have an accident or become victims of crimes can contact the Visitor Aloha Society of Hawaii (VASH; 808-926-8274; www.visitoralohasocietyofhawaii.org) for short-term assistance. HAZARDS & TRESPASSING Flash floods, rock falls, tsunami, earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, shark attacks, jellyfish
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, helicopter rides and farm visits) are reviewed in regional chapters. Group tours typically involve superficial ‘stop and click’ sightseeing tours by Jack’s Tours, Roberts Hawaii and Polynesian Adventure Tours. Here are a couple of recommended tour providers: Elderhostel ( 800-454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) Offers tours (including accommodations, meals
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.htm for details. All animals must enter the state at Honolulu International Airport. » Transportation To rent a wheelchair-accessible van, see the Wheelchair Getaways of Hawaii ( 800-638-1912; www.wheelchairgetaways.com) website. While many outdoor attractions are challenging for people in wheelchairs, Puʻuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park (
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Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH; www.sath.org) . Volunteering See the Green Big Island chapter ( Click here ). Work » US citizens can legally work in Hawaii, but considering the high unemployment rate, opportunities are limited. Short-term employment will probably mean entry-level jobs in the service industry. Specific outdoor skills
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feathered bird, now extinct mana – spiritual power mauka – toward the mountains; inland mele – song, chant menehune – ‘little people’ who, according to legend, built many of Hawaii’s fishponds, heiau and other stonework milo – a native shade tree with beautiful hardwood moa – jungle fowl mokihana – an endemic tree or shrub, with scented
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want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. Author Thanks LUCI YAMAMOTO Mahalo to Hawaii Tribune-Herald editor David Bock, to history buff Wayne Subica and to my fascinating Local Knowledge interviewees, Danny Akaka, Derek Kurisu, Stan Lawrence and
Parks Directory of the United States
by Darren L. Smith and Kay Gill · 1 Jan 2004
American Samoa (See National Parks) Arizona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Arkansas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 California. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Colorado. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357 Connecticut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Delaware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 Florida.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 Georgia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 Guam (See National Parks) Hawaii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419 Idaho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428 3 Illinois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434 Indiana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459 Iowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468 Kansas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479 Kentucky . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 485 Louisiana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496 Maine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504 Maryland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512 Massachusetts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524 Michigan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542
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from the 10,023 foot summit of Haleakala down the southeast flank of the mountain to the Kipahulu coast near Hana on the Island of Maui, Hawaii. These two sections of the Park are not directly connected by road, but both can be reached from Kahului. The Summit area of Haleakala is
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trail. Entrance fee required. Activities: Camping, hiking, mountain climbing, auto touring, stargazing, ranger-led programs. Special Features: Active volcanism continues here, on the island of Hawaii, where at lower elevations luxuriant and often rare vegetation provides food and shelter for a variety of animals. An 11-mile drive circles Kilauea’s
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: 808-882-7218; Fax: 808-882-1215 Size: 86 acres. History: Authorized on August 17, 1972. Location: On the northwestern coast of the island of Hawaii, 1 mile south of Kawaihae off HI 270. Facilities: Rest rooms (u), visitor center (u), self-guided tour/trail. Activities: Hiking, birdwatching, wildlife viewing,
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acres. History: Established on September 9, 1980. Location: On the shoreline overlooking Pearl Harbor directly off HI 99 (Kamehameha Highway) on the island of Oahu, Hawaii. Facilities: Rest rooms (u), restaurant/snacks, visitor center (u), museum/exhibit. Activities: Guided tour. Special Features: This 184-foot-long floating memorial marks the
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Region 5 - Pacific Southwest Region 1323 Club Dr Vallejo, CA 94592 707-562-8737 - Phone 707-562-9091 - Fax Web: fs.fed.us/r5 (California, Hawaii, Guam, Trust Territories of the Pacific Islands) Publications: Numerous general and technical reports, bulletins, leaflets, brochures, pamphlets, books, fact sheets, and maps. For a publications
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Pacific Region Eastside Federal Complex 911 NE 11th Ave Portland, OR 97232 503-231-6118 - Phone 503-872-2716 - Fax Web:fws.gov/pacific (California, Hawaii, Idaho, Nevada, Oregon, Washington, Pacific Islands) For further information on the national wildlife refuge system in the United States contact the Division of Refuges or
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: www.fws.gov/pacificislands/wnwr/bhakalaunwr.html Phone: 808-933-6915; Fax: 808-933-6917 Location: 12 miles northwest of Hilo, on the island of Hawaii. Established: 1985. Habitat: 32,733 acres on the windward (eastern) slope of Moana Loa. Habitats include grassland and open woodland at the highest elevations;
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contact station. Activities: Birdwatching, hiking. Access: Open to the public on weekends and holidays. Primary Wildlife: Endangered forest birds, including the akiapola’au, the Hawaii akepa, Hawaii creeper, i’iwi, apapane, elepaio, and Hawaiian hoary bat. Special Features: Refuge’s two units are located at elevations between 2,000 and 6,600
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10am - 4pm. Primary Wildlife: Wedge-tailed shearwaters, redfooted boobies, Hawaiian monk seals, and the endangered nene or Hawaiian Goose, which is the state bird of Hawaii. Special Features: Refuge houses the historic Kilauea Lighthouse. Visitors may spot great frigatebirds, brown boobies, red-tailed and white-tailed tropicbirds, and Laysan albatrosses. Humpback
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637-6330; Fax: 808-637-3578 Location: South of the Schofield Barracks Military Reserve, in the northern Koolau Mountains on the eastern side of Oahu, Hawaii. Established: 2000. Habitat: 4,525 acres of forested land on the leeward slopes of Oahu’s Kooalu Mountains. Habitat communities include mesic forest, rain forest
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and the Hawaiian stilt. Special Features: Refuge is composed of two units: the Honouliuli Unit, which is extensively managed for a variety of waterbirds including Hawaii’s endangered waterbirds and migrant waterfowl; and the Waiawa Unit, which is composed of two ponds, one of which is primarily managed for the endangered
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tell the story of how Hawaiiians flourished as a civilization, Captain Cook’s historic landing, the rise of Kamehameha I, and subsequent changes leading to Hawaii’s unique blend of cultures. American history, and today remnants of the trail are reminders of the sacrifices, struggles, and triumphs of early American travelers
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, the north and south coast of Oahu, the north shore of Kauai, and the northwest section of Hawaii. Facilities: The main office in Kihei (Maui) maintains a Sanctuary Education Center that offers informative displays about local culture and animals found in sanctuary waters. There is also a deck for whale
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whales), sea turtles, the only remaining population of the endangered Hawaiian monk seal, and more than 14 million seabirds. Facilities: Mokupäpapa: Discovery Center for Hawaii’s Remote Coral Reefs, an interactive educational facility, provides educational programs and teacher training on marine life, as well as the natural and cultural resources
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nation’s largest conservation area. Located in Hilo, Mokupäpapa is a joint project of NOAA’s National Marine Sanctuary Program and the University of Hawaii. Activities: Recreational fishing, boating, scuba diving. Special Features: The Marine National Monument is the second largest marine protected area in the world, and is
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B-5 B-4 C-8 E-9 A-2 C-8 E-9 A-2 A-1 29 38 MAUI KAHOOLAWE D 21 25 3 35 49 E Hilo 32 HAWAII 26 19 18 27 F State Historical Park State Monument State Park State Recreation Area State Recreation Pier State Underwater
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takes visitors through lush tropical vegetation to views of cascading Kahuna Falls and free-falling Akaka Falls, which plunges 442 feet into a gorge. ★2114★ Hawaii Division of State Parks 1151 Punchbowl St Honolulu, HI 96813 (808) 587-0300 - Phone (808) 587-0311 - Fax (808) 587-0180 - Employment Web: www.
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acres. Location: Off Diamond Head Road between Makapuu Avenue and 18th Avenue in Honolulu. Facilities: Picnic area, hiking trail, scenic views. Activities: Hiking. Special Features: Hawaii’s most famous landmark is a large tuff cone formed by a short series of explosive eruptions some 100,000 years ago. Diamond Head’s
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Bike Path passes through the park. ★2121★ HALEKII-PIHANA HEIAU STATE MONUMENT c/o Maui District Office 54 S High St, Rm 101 Wailuku, HI 96793 Web: www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/maui.html Phone: 808-984-8109 420 HAWAII Size: 10.2 acres. Location: In Wailuku at the end of Hea Place, off
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Kuhio Place from Waiehu Beach Road (Highway 340). Facilities: Cultural site; no drinking water. Special Features: Monument preserves the remains of two important heiau (places of worship) that were rededicated as war temples by Kahekili, Maui’s
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and County beach park with interpretive kiosk. ★2126★ IOLANI PALACE STATE MONUMENT c/o Oahu District Office PO Box 621 Honolulu, HI 96809 Web: www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/oahu.html Phone: 808-587-0300 Size: 11 acres. Location: Corner of South King Street and Richards Street, downtown Honolulu. Facilities:
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beach-related activities, pig hunting. Special Features: This scenic wildland ★2125★ IAO VALLEY STATE MONUMENT c/o Maui District Office 54 S High St, Rm 101 Wailuku, HI 96793 Web: www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/maui.html Phone: 808-984-8109 421 9. State Parks ★2127★ KAENA POINT STATE PARK c/o Oahu
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District Office PO Box 621 Honolulu, HI 96809 Web: www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/oahu.html Phone: 808-587-0300 Size
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hgih cinder cone that offers an excellent view of the coastline. ★2131★ KAUMAHINA STATE WAYSIDE c/o Maui District Office 54 S High St, Rm 101 Wailuku, HI 96793 Web: www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/maui.html Phone: 808-984-8109 Size: 8 acres. Location: On Hana Highway (Highway 360), approximately 28 miles
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water. Special Features: This forested rest stop has showy exotic plants and a view of the northeast Maui coastline. ★2135★ KEWALO BASIN c/o Oahu District Office PO Box 621 Honolulu, HI 96809 Web: www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/oahu.html Phone: 808-587-0300 Size: 3 acres. Location: Off Ala Moana
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seabird sanctuary island. 423 9. State Parks ★2138★ KUKANILOKO BIRTHSTONES STATE MONUMENT c/o Oahu District Office PO Box 621 Honolulu, HI 96809 Web: www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/oahu.html Phone: 808-587-0300 Size: 5 acres. Location: At the intersection of Kamehameha Highway (Highway 99) and Whitmore Avenue on
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short-lived adventure (1815-1817) in the Hawaiian Islands. The ★2154★ PUAA KAA STATE WAYSIDE c/o Maui District Office 54 S High St, Rm 101 Wailuku, HI 96793 Web: www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/maui.html Phone: 808-984-8109 Size: 5 acres. Location: On Hana Highway (Highway 360), approximately 38 miles
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small scenic waterfalls and pools. 425 9. State Parks ★2153★ POLIPOLI SPRING STATE RECREATION AREA c/o Maui District Office 54 S High St, Rm 101 Wailuku, HI 96793 Web: www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/maui.html Phone: 808-984-8109 Size: 10 acres. Elevation: 6,200 feet. Location: In Kula Forest Reserve
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residents. It offers a good view of the harbor and sunsets. ★2163★ WAIANAPANAPA STATE PARK c/o Maui District Office 54 S High St, Rm 101 Wailuku, HI 96793 Web: www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/maui.html Phone: 808-984-8109 Size: 122 acres. Location: Off Hana Highway (Highway 360) at the end
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worship, places of refuge, and birthstones. ★2162★ WAHIAWA FRESHWATER STATE RECREATION AREA c/o Oahu District Office PO Box 621 Honolulu, HI 96809 Web: www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/oahu.html Phone: 808-587-0300 Size: 66 acres. Location: At 380 Walker Avenue, off Avocado Street or California Avenue from Kamehameha
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area is located along the wooded shore of Wahiawa Reservoir, with year-round 426 HAWAII ★2166★ WAILUA VALLEY STATE WAYSIDE c/o Maui District Office 54 S High St, Rm 101 Wailuku, HI 96793 Web: www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/maui.html Phone: 808-984-8109 Size: 1.5 acres. Location: On Hana Highway
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Waikiki. Facilities: Campsites, picnic areas. Activities: Camping (by permit), volleyball, fishing, swimming, snorkeling/ scuba diving, surfing. Special Features: The largest and oldest public park in Hawaii, it hosts the world famous Honolulu Marathon. Adjacent to Waikaki Aquarium and Honolulu Zoo. ★4872★ MEMORIAL PARK 6501 Memorial Dr Houston, TX 77024 Web: www
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Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve (CO) . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Great Smoky Mountains National Park (TN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Guadalupe Mountains National Park (TX). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Haleakala National Park (HI). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (HI) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Hobbs State Park-Conservation Area (AR) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1468 Hot Springs National Park (AR) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Isle Royale National Park (MI) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
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Wolf Island National Wildlife Refuge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1045 Wormsloe State Historic Site. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2113 Guam Guam National Wildlife Refuge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 758 War in the Pacific National Historical Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361 Hawaii Ahukini State Recreation Pier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2116 Aiea Bay State Recreation Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2117 Akaka Falls State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2118 Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1052 Ala Moana
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State Recreation Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2132 Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2133 Numbers cited after listings are entry numbers rather than page numbers. 1022 14. GEOGRAPHIC INDEX (Hawaii — Illinois) Eagle Island State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2177 Farragut State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2178 Grays Lake National Wildlife Refuge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 748 Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Harriman State
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